Tag Archives: BMW

BMW E65 E66 Rolls Phantom REMOTE START DIY INSTRUCTIONS

We are happy to introduce our first custom designed unique remote start module. I think everyone knows what remote start is and why you need it (of course you can survive without it), but here are few reasons:

Engine warm up: Did you know why BMW shows warm up line on your tachometer and they don’t want you to rev engine (DME is coded to reduce RPM before it warms up) to avoid bearings failure due to poor lubrication???? it is always good to warm up your engine and transmission before driving especially in cold weather. All moving parts of your engine will benefit from better warmer oil temps. Engine oil has much better lubrication specs when warmed up. Some mechanics will tell you its OK to drive right away, but its not true and people have no idea how oil works, no wonder why commercial trucks and cabs can get up to 1mln miles or more out of the engine. The worst wear and tear happens on the first cold start. Every cold start~ roughly 5000mls engine life and even more for diesel engine due to higher compression ratio.
Interior warm up or cool down in hot or cold weather, it will also defrost your windows and mirrors quick, so you don’t have to wait and put yourself in danger due to poor visibility etc. With extra module you can even schedule starts every day and check status of your engine and shock sensors. Most convenient feature in hot climate areas. Imagine you parked your car in Miami or Houston 110F +40C weather and how nice it is to enjoy cooled down interior and your leather seat is not frying hot anymore. Will also prevent leather wear and tear if you keep interior ventilated in the summer. You can schedule remote starts every hour or so. Imagine how much leather interior costs in 760li or Rolls Royce Phantom?

If you drive short distances it will recharge your battery at least for extra 15-20 mins.

Here We will describe how to install remote start module on any BMW e65/66/RR. Some people say it might be very complex, in fact its very easy and if you can replace a light bulb in your car, you can install this module yourself. This module was custom designed&built by us, so you will not find any solution anywhere else at least yet and its quite inexpensive, only 350$ shipped. Some people ask why is it so expensive? Well it depends what to call expensive: remote start HONDA CIVIC OR SUCH will cost you 300-400$ installed and you will have extra bulky remote and its not high tech by any means and installation is 100 times more complex (YOU NEED TO CONNECT BRAKE SWITCH, DOOR SWITCHES, ETC AND ITS ALL MECHANICAL CONNECTIONS) than our module AND NOT SAFE, BECAUSE IT OPERATES HIGH CURRENT RELAYS AND IF INSTALLATION DONE UNPROFESSIONALLY YOU MIGHT BURN YOUR CAR, UNLIKE OUR MODULE IS FULLY INTEGRATED INTO ALL BMW MODULES AND IT DOES NOT OPERATE ANY HIGH CURRENT RELAYS OR SUCH, YOU CAN SEE HOW THIN OUR WIRES ARE, AND OUR MODULE COMMUNICATES USING 8 BIT MICROPROCESSOR AND FULLY PROGRAMMABLE AND TALKS TO CAS AND IHKA MODULE THE WAY BMW DESIGNED AND YOU DO NOT NEED TO BUY EXTRA REMOTE AND HIDE IT IN THE CAR (REDNECK REMOTE START SOLUTION). SO OUR REMOTE START CAN BE CALLED FACTORY REMOTE START MODULE, SINCE IT WORKS ON TOP OF THE CAS MODULE. AND ITS VERY VERY SMALL AND CAN BE HIDDEN VERY EASY NEAR CAS MODULE.

Tools needed:

Torx T25 screwdriver
Some sharp pick tool or scalpel
***BMW NCS &INPA installed on your laptop with OBD DCAN cable
Pair of good hands:)

*** We will provide free coding if you don’t have equipment or experience, plus we can code extra options if needed (open windows from remote, LED replacement coding so no errors on the dash, fold mirrors from remote)

Installation process can be divided in 2 easy steps:

INSTALLATION & CODING/PROGRAMMMING

INSTALLATION ONLY 6 WIRES (4 posi taps and 2 insert contacts):

Disconnect negative wire from your battery as a precaution, though its not necessary
Remove plastic panel on top of the climate control module, it simply pops out. Use some flat plastic panel remover tool or credit card. Unscrew (1) 4 T25 screws holding central vent. Gently Push central vent out of the panel, Disconnect central vent sensor connectors. Check pictures:

Remove CAS and IHKA connectors. Check pictures:

Remove actual pin connectors from the housings. Use some sharp pick tool or scalpel or knife to release tabs on each connector. Each connector has special direction lock so you can’t install them wrong and has numbers on it. Check pictures:

Find appropriate wires from remote start module connector and connect them according to this diagram. I recommend installing POSI TAPS connectors further away from housings, so you can close it easy. Just move down factory isolation tape for some extra space. You need to insert 2 contacts female pins and tap 4 wires into existing wires. Please make sure you follow this diagram (click to enlarge):

Once all wires connected properly, please connect actual remote start module. If everything was done correctly, you should see emergency blinker flashing 3 times. It will only do it once, after you connected the module. This means everything was connected properly and module can talk to your CAS module, this is very important step. You cannot proceed if you didn’t see flashing. To confirm, you can disconnect it again and connect it, so you see the confirmation flashing again. Now Emergency blinker will be used to program your keys and features.
*** Blue wire from remote start module can be used to add additional remote start module to extend the range or it can be used with GSM module, so you can start it from anywhere in the world where cellular network is present. By default its programmed to start the vehicle once +12V is present on this wire. You can install Viper car alarm with SMARTSTART module, this way you can start it anywhere with cellular network. This is additional feature and not supported in all countires.

CODING&PROGRAMMING (we can code it remotely if you don’t have equipment)

Assuming everything was installed correctly in the first step, we need to code CAS module to accept commands from our remote start module. This very important, because it will not accept anything from our module otherwise.

If battery replacement was never registered, you should register it using INPA or ISTA. It might not start the engine if battery is weak or not registered

Add $539 and code CAS and IHKA modules, for American and Canada market you need to change FA code as well. Note: if you have WEBASTO heater and you would like to also start your heater remotely, please add $536 option as well. Last number of the FA code should be changed from 3 to 1.Example FA code with added $539 option and changed last digit from 3 to 1: E65_#0906&U6SW%0475$1CA$229$248$252$255$2EA$2VB$302$316$319$322$323$330$358$403$415$416$423$430$431$438$441$442$451$453$456$464$470$488$494$496$508$521$524$534$539$609$620$645$655$672$677$691$697$760$845$850$853$925$992$9AA*HL81-LEDE

Now after you coded CAS and IHKA modules with NCS Expert, our remote start module can talk to CAS and IHKA, so you have to program remote start module to your CAS, by using this technique shown on the video or use diagram below. Door locks MUST respond accordingly just like on the video. If you didn’t see this confirmation, it means you didn’t count pauses, or CAS hasn’t been coded with $539 option and last number hasn’t been changed. You can not proceed if you didn’t see module pairing confirmation with door locks and eergency blinker!

Now after remote start module has been paired successfully with your CAS module, we need to store our factory remote keys in the remote start module memory. It supports up to 6 remotes. Please follow the video to pair your factory remotes with the module. If you didn’t see this confirmation, it means you didn’t count pauses between pressing buttons, or CAS hasn’t been coded with $539 option and last number hasn’t been changed. You can not proceed if you didn’t see module pairing confirmation with door locks and emergency blinker!

If all steps went through successfully and assuming factory remote works good and alarm beeps once after you lock it , you should be able to start your vehicle by pressing lock button on your remote 3 times and stop the engine by pressing it 2 times. By pressing lock button 5 times you can start WEBASTO aux heater if your car equipped with it. Every second press of the lock button will be confirmed by turn signal blinkers, so you know it accepted your commands.

Congratulations, everything was done properly. If you have doubts you can code it, we can always help remotely and send you the equipment, plus you will get free full diagnostic (300$ at the dealer by the way). 300$ deposit will be refunded upon receiving the equipment. Do not hesitate and contact us by email or call (415)323-3412.

Conditions it will not start the engine:

it didn’t beep once, after you locked your vehicle. Possible reasons: Hood open or hood switch faulty (you can disconnect it, this way your car thinks it is always locked), any door open or trunk.
Low fuel level in the fuel tank. Less than 60mls range or 100km. Make sure fuel level sensor is working correctly
Battery is weak or not registered

This remote start is very sophisticated and incorporates all safety features built into the CAS from factory:

Will not let anyone drive it without remote key. If you don;t have comfort access you will need to insert the key in order to switch gear selector. Otherwise it will not let you select gears or rev the engine.
It will turn off itself after 15 minutes, if no one opened the car.
Automatically sets up 72F temperature with AC to cool down or heat up interior.
Will not let anyone with remote key operate any controls inside the vehicle, otherwise it will shut off everything.

BMW THERMOSTAT PROBLEM AND SOLUTION. THE MOST IMPORTANT THING ON THIS SITE!!

23 Replies

THIS POST AFFECTS ABSOLUTELY ALL BMW GASOLINE ENGINES AFTER 1995! M54, M62, M62TU, N62, N63, N52, N47, N63TU AND OTHERS, OR WHY IT IS A VERY GOOD IDEA TO LOWER RUNNING TEMPS!

Why I called it BMW THERMOSTAT PROBLEM? What is wrong with that simple part in BMW?? It looks like a well made thermostat and lasts for a while. Obviously nothing wrong with thermostat quality, in fact its a very good quality part made by BEHR.

So here is the thing. Since 1996 BMW introduced 105C MAP DME controlled thermostat for V8 and 97C for Inline 6 cylinders, which can be controlled by DME when needed.

So here is what it is, Nothing crazy here- just a heater, so DME can heat it up and open it earlier than thermostat is calibrated. Lets say it can open it at 95C versus 105C mechanical specs.

Sounds like a cool idea:

-Run your engine hotter in the city or low engine loads 105-110C to get better mpg and less emissions with REDUCED POWER OUTPUT, because they think you don’t need it in the city, so to save mpg. May be a good innovative idea.

-run it cool on the highway 90-98C to get full POWER OUTPUT.

BUT HERE IS A DOWNSIDE, OR A SMART BMW MOVE??:

You cannot raise the temperature to 110C without raising coolant pressure (otherwise it will start boiling), So they installed 200 (2.0 BAR) radiator cap. So imagine in the city your cooling system is under serious pressure. Compare it to Toyota 1.0-1.3 BAR max! But they run 87-90C simple conventional thermostats, without any innovations like DME controlled THERMOSTAT, and most Toyotas don’t have any serious issues at least 7-10 years, unlike BMW where you get cooling system failures all the time! Exploded, cracked coolant tanks, hoses, gaskets and other cooling system parts. Any tiny leak will lower cooling system pressure and you will get micro boiling, where OEM 105C thermostat can not open due to that micro boiling and you can experience ALWAYS COLD LOWER HOSE SYMPTOM I’M SORRY BUT IT WASN’T THE CASE FOR 1970-1995 BMW ENGINES WHERE THEY USED 85-95 TSTATS.
Your engine runs at 105-115C will raise oil temperatures to up o 120-130C which is a lot, though they say synthetic oils can easily withstand it. They forgot to tell you all rubber parts don’t like this temperature at all, and rubber becomes dry or even plastic very early: VALVE SEALS, VALVE COVER GASKETS, VALVE COVERS GET WARPED VERY EARLY, ALL RUBBER GASKETS IN THE ENGINE (OIL PAN GASKETS, ALTERNATOR BRACKET GASKETS, SPARK PLUG PIPE GASKETS, VAUUM PUMP GASKETS, VANOS SEALS AND OTHERS). There is a mechanic’s favorite joke: -IF BMW DOESN’T LEAK ANY OIL, IT MEANS THERE IS NO OIL LEFT!!!!! I’M SORRY BUT IT WASN’T THE CASE FOR 1970-1990 BMW ENGINES , WHERE ENGINES WERE THE MOST RELIABLE! NOW IN 2016 YOU CAN BUY 5YEAR OLD BMW AND START REPLACING ALL GASKETS. DO YOU KNOW HOW MUCH IT COSTS? VALVE SEALS ON V8 MIGHT COST YOU 3000-8000$ EASY! That’s why you can get 5 year old V8 BMW for “cheap”. THERE IS NO CHEAP USED BMW:) IF YOU GOT IT CHEAP, IT MEANS THEY GOT RID OF IT NOT TO DEAL WITH REPAIRS. ALSO OIL LEAKS WIL LDESTROY YOUR SUSPENSION VERY QUICK!
High running temperatures 110+ will get you small detonation, but since BMW has knock sensors, you will not hear it, because DME will retard timing in milliseconds, so everything sounds ok, but engine power is reduced! Try to drive your car in the morning when cold and compare it to traffic city driving when hot. If you Have turbocharged engine you will notice a huge difference, because high temps will affect inter cooler cooling as well.
High running temps can affect cylinder walls cooling unevenly, causing piston rings to lose flexibility and therefore its function, they also call it frozen piston rings (loss of compression, high oil consumption). Thus you might get high oil consumption even on low miles vehicles, but BMW will tell you it is ok AND WITHIN SPECS to have 1QT/1000MIES! N63, M54, N52 ARE THE WINNERS HERE:) OTHERS CAN BE FIXED WITH NEW VALVE SEALS.
TRANSMISSION: Since transmission has no separate cooler and connected directly to engine radiator, it also run hotter then it supposed to, and if you have always cold lower hose symptom, I can tell your tranny runs way too hot and way over 82C specs, sometimes I see 115-120C temps, running with these high temps will destroy any transmission internals pretty quick. Even 82C is somewhat high, but still okay. best temps 70-80C for this tranny.
In M62B44TU, M62b44 we see lots of issues with chain rail guides broken after 100k-150k, but we do not see this problem on M62B44 E31, where they run conventional 95C thermostat, BUT THE ENGINE IS 100% the same, and this exactly the same engine lasts at least 2x times longer compared to the one with 105C MAP thermostat (E39/E38/E53/RANGE ROVER HSE), needles to say their cooling system lasts 20 years easily. You can ask e31 owners about their experience and how often they replace chain rail guides and compare it to all other running 105C tstat in all other BMW models except E31 of course. My e31 1994 with M60 running 85C tstat had original cooling system, when i bought it in 2012! All parts were original (coolant tank, tstat, water pump, hoses), it had infamous NIKASIL problem (cylinder walls cororoded), but other things were in perfect shape after 20 years and 150kmls! WHICH MEANS BMW QUALITY IS SUPERIOR TO OTHER BRANDS IN SAME CONDITIONS, BUT PHYSICALLY THEY CAN NOT WITHSTAND THESE HIGH TEMPERATURES AND PRESSURE.

So as you can see BMW innovative thermostat design might sound innovative, but personally I believe it is done to SHORTEN ENGINE AND TRANSMISSION LIFE, SO YOU BUY A NEW CAR EVERY 3-5 YEARS. THATS THE REASON 10 YEAR OLD BMW V8 COSTS LESS THAN TOYOTA CAMRY SAME YEARS AND MILES!

SO TO SOLVE THIS PROBLEM WE CAME OUT WITH INNOVATIVE SOLUTION TO RECALIBRATE ORIGINAL THERMOSTATS AND LET IT OPEN AT 87-90C, VS 105-110C, ITS ALMOST 20C DIFFERENCE AND IT IS HUGE DIFFERENCE, BECAUSE THIS WAY WE CAN REDUCE COOLING PRESSURE TO 1.0-1.3 MAX JUST LIKE ALL NORMAL JAPANESE CARS. ALL RUBBER GASKETS WILL LAST AT LEAST 2X LONGER, BECAUSE AT 110 RUBBER DRIES OUT VERY QUICK. ABSOLUTELY NO ERRORS AND YOU WILL FEEL THAT YOUR CAR RUNS STRONGER IN THE CITY, AND GAS MILEAGE IS ALMOST THE SAME OR EVEN BETTER VS OEM TSTAT. AFTER TESTING IT FOR 4 YEARS I CAN TELL, IT DOES NOT CAUSE ANY PROBLEMS TO THE ENGINE, BECAUSE EVEN WITH OEM TSTAT YOUR CAR RUNS 90-93 ON THE HIGHWAY! WE HAVE 85-95C THERMOSTATS FOR ALMOST ALL BMW ENGINES STARTING FROM 1995.

I UNDERSTAND, LOTS OF YOU WILL SAY BMW ENGINEERS DESIGNED IT, AND WHO ARE YOU TO SAY THAT? WELL, I HAVE MECHANICAL ENGINEER DEGREE AND OUR PROFESSOR ALWAYS TOLD US, THAT 90-95C IS THE BEST RUNNING TEMPS FOR THE ENGINES, EVERYTHING HIGHER GETS YOU DETONATION RISKS AND NOT MAKE MUCH SENSE TO GET A LITTLE BETTER MPG…

HOW ELSE TO EXPLAIN HIGH ENGINE RATE FAILURE IN BMW COMPARED TO SIMPLE TOYOTAS AND HONDAS?? EVEN KIA IS WAY MORE RELIABLE THAN MODERN BMW, THEY ALL RUN 82-87C TSTATS WITHOUT ANY INNOVATIONS. MERCEDES ALSO RUNS IT COOL 90-95 MAX, THEY HAVE OTHER ISSUES, BUT COOLING SYSTEM IS RELIABLE AND NOBODY REPLACES VALVE SEAL GUIDES AFTER 40-60K MILES ON THEM, NORMAL ENGINE CAN EASILY LAST 200KMLS ON ORIGINAL VALVE SEALS, AND SAME PARTS SUPPLIERS USED FOR BOTH BRANDS BY THE WAY.

ALL BMW M ENGINES RUN LOWER TEMP 79C THERMOSTATS, AND THESE ENGINES ARE INNOVATIVE FOR SURE AND THEY LAST MUCH LONGER AND KEEP THEIR VALUE :

S54 RUNS 79C
S62 RUNS 79C
S85 RUNS 79C P/N:1153783615
ALL DIESEL ENGINES BMW RUNS AT 88C AND THEY EASILY LAST UP TO 500k MILES WITHOUT ANY LEAKS OR FROZEN PISTON RINGS (THEY HAVE EGR PROBLEM (which can be deleted) BUT ITS NOT RELATED TO OUR TOPIC)

SO APPARENTLY THERE IS NOTHING WRONG TO RUN THESE ENGINES COOLER, JUST LIKE ALL OTHER NORMAL CARS DO. AS YOU UNDERSTAND BMW EVOLVED A LOT SINCE 1995 AND USED BMW CARS DEPRECIATED CRAZY SINCE THEN, ONLY BECAUSE OF RELIABILITY ISSUES. COULD BE COINCIDENCE??? I DON’T THINK SO, I KNOW TONS OF PEOPLE WHO DUMPED THEIR CARS FOR NOTHING, BECAUSE OF THE REPAIRS. IMAGINE NEW 7″ COSTS 100K AND 10 YEARS LATER YOU CAN GET IT FOR 10K OR LESS ALMOST CAMRY PRICE! SOMEONE SAID BECAUSE BMW USES LOW QUALITY RUBBER GASKETS, IT NOT TRUE, THEY USE TOP NOTCH QUALITY CONTROL.

I HIGHLY DOUBT BMW CAME UP WITH THIS 105c TSTAT JUST TO SAVE MAY BE 1-2% MPG, HOW COME OTHER CARS DON’ T DO IT???? IT IS MUCH EASIER TO SELL LOWER MPG CAR, RIGHT??

ANYWAYS, IT IS UP TO YOU TO BELIEVE IT OR NOT, BUT SIMPLY TYPE “BMW LEAKING OIL OR COOLANT N62, N63” IN GOOGLE AND THINGS WILL LOOK VERY DIFFERENT FROM OTHER CARS MAINTENANCE.

INTERESTING STORY:

One friend of mine bought 750li 2007 with 103k in okay condition with ONLY check engine light on, so when i inspected it, i was pleasantly surprised:

engine had zero leaks from valve covers and valve seals were in okay shape!!!! at these miles it is almost 100% valve seals are gone and valve covers leak along with upper timing covers and other things!! so no oil leaks
cooling system had ZERO new parts installed, everything was in okay shape, all hoses original and no issues at all. even coolant tank had no cracks, which is very rare. so all components lasted 100k!!! and still lasting
THE ONLY CHECK ENGINE LIGHT INDICATED JAMMED THERMOSTAT, WHICH IS NORMAL BECAUSE THEY DON’T LAST FOREVER. SO PREVIOUS OWNER WAS CHEAP AND NEVER TOOK IT TO BMW AFTER WARRANTY EXPIRED!!! BUT THIS JAMMED OPEN THERMOSTAT (FIRST OCCURRED AT 50KMLS) LET HIS CAR RUN AT 80-90c MAX, BECAUSE IT WAS NEVER 100% CLOSED DUE TO WEAR AND TEAR, SO THIS IS WHAT SAVED HIS CAR FROM EXPENSIVE REPAIRS. ABSOLUTELY ZERO NEW PARTS WERE INSTALLED ON THIS ENGINE AND ZERO LEAKS ANYWHERE! CAR RAN PERFECT!

SO HE REPLACED THERMOSTAT AND NO MORE ERRORS, BUT IN 3 MONTHS HIS VALVE COVERS STARTED LEAKING BADLY….. 5 MORE MONTHS LATER HE GOT INFAMOUS ALTERNATOR BRACKET LEAK (800$+)

THAT’S WHY WE DESIGNED THE WAY TO RE CALIBRATE ORIGINAL THERMOSTATS TO RUN AT 90-95C. NO ERRORS WERE THROWN, ENGINE RUNS PERFECT SINCE 2013 AND NO NEW LEAKS.

WE CAN RE CALIBRATE ANY BMW AND OTHER BRANDS THERMOSTATS, YOU CAN EMAIL US WITH YOUR QUESTIONS.

NEW ORIGINAL RE CALIBRATED THERMOSTAT FOR N62, N63 WILL COST YOU ONLY 199$ (FAST&FREE SHIPPING INCLUDED), WHICH IS THE BEST UPDATE FOR YOUR HOT RUNNING ENGINE. SOON IT WILL BE POSTED ON EBAY, SO IF YOU FELL MORE COMFORTABLE YOU CAN BUY IT FROM THERE, BUT ITS A LITTLE EXTRA DUE TO EBAY FEES. ALSO WE RECOMMEND INSTALLING NEW HEATER VALVE EVERY 5-7 YEARS (standard symptom-no cabin heat or one side is hot and another is barely hot, also it might cause overheating as well, because you cannot bleed the air if tat heater is partially clogged). If everything is good and no leaks i recommend replacing: thermostat, heater valve, radiator cap. With this 90C thermostat you can easily install 140 (1,4 BAR) cap from diesel engines, because pressure is reduced due to reduced boiling point, which is a good idea, since you do not need to build high pressure anymore, though with 90C thermostat it will rarely get to that point even with stock 200 cap. All bmw diesel engines run 140 (1,4 BAR) caps, same thing with old M20 engines, they run similar temp 75-80C TSTATS or even lower. As you know those old engines could last 500kmls easy, isn’t it interesting coincidence: the lower tstat is, the more reliable engine is? You can try our thermostat, and if you are not happy you can return it for a full refund. In most cases people respond with better torque and throttle response after installing our thermostats. Obviously you noticed your BMW runs better before 100C and becomes weaker after 100C.

EBAY LINK TO 90C THERMOSTAT N62/63

BMW ENGINE LAG PROBLEM

2 Replies

BMW N62 GAS PEDAL ENGINE LAG!

On BMW N62, N63 and other engines especially e65, e66, e60, e63, e64 series most likely you might experience some gas pedal lag delay or uneven power delivery at lows. It feels like you press on it and engine barely revs from lows or it revs, but you have to press it harder to feel it. Assuming engine and tranny do not have any problems and all other components run as they should, I mean no vacuum leaks, all sensors read correct values etc, but still it feels like gas pedal is slow at lows, usually in the city driving. Funny part BMW will tell you its normal lag because of drive by wire nowadays standard, though there was no delay on m62tu engines with similar drive by wire gas pedal back in 1999. Lots of people buy some magic gas pedal boosters 200-300$, but they should understand, that this booster simply sends 2x signal to DME (engine brain),so it basically feels like you press 2x harder. This method (if you call it a method) is not a good one for a few reasons:

-it will make your car less smoother or some say it fells jerky

-not safe, you can easily rear end someone in the city

-premature transmission wear and tear

-overall more stressful for the engine and tranny

-higher gas consumption

-overpriced 200$+

So we have been looking for a solution for a while and looks like we found it!!!

and its all original BMW OEM. You simply need to replace your gas pedal assembly with the newest one they sell at the dealers or online, but make sure they sell you the newer design, because newer pedal assembly is way better and has newer chip built in, also it has newer pedal design, so it wont get sticky if dirt or water gets there. You will be really surprised, that the lag will be gone and bmw will perform like it should without any lag from lows and overall will make it fell much smoother. Look at these pics:

newer part number is: 35426859999

you will find this pedal installed on the newest BMW F series

you can get it form the dealer or online, just make sure they sell you newer design only, because lots of sellers still have old pedals in stock.

newer gas pedal design:

older gas pedal design:

It is very easy to remove it, just remove plastic cap, unscrew the metal screw 2, and then disconnect a connector. Install a new one and done! you can reset engine adaptations, but not very necessarily, it will work as is.

Basically BMW updated gas pedal design for that reason, but of course they didn’t recall it, so they know this problem really well, otherwise why they completely redesigned it??

This modification will work on any BMW with similar part numbers.

ALL BMW M54, M52, M60, M62, M62tu, M56, N62, N62B48tu and others!! Engine Overheating? No its not a head gasket problem!

6 Replies

Ok, i decided to create this post because i see lots of bimmers running hot or even overheating. You would say nothing new here, right? Well believe it or not lots of mechanics or shops trying to resolve this problem with no luck and in the end as a final solution they offer head gasket repair, which won’t fix anything.

So here are the main standard problems, applies to any water cooled engine:

Radiator cap not sealing well or valve inside is not working anymore causing boiling in your cooling system due to pressure loss. Solution? replace radiator cap every 5 years even if its good.
Any coolant leak will create pressure loss and introduce air in the system. Make sure there is no leaks. Use Pressure tester.
Thermostat if bad, it stays open on these engines, and you usually get error code P0128 if heater inside burned or you get thermostat jammed error code. usually tstat lasts 70-100k easily.
Water pump impeller can slip or even fall apart or bearing might seize causing total failure. Good thing these engines head gaskets are very strong and can sustain serious overheating.
REPLACE TEMP SENSORS EVERY 70KMLS, THEY DO GO BAD AND SOMETIMES SHOW LOWER TEMPS THEN IT IS, ESPECIALLY WATER PUMP TEMP SENSOR, LOWER SENSOR IS KNOWN FOR O-RING LEAK, APPLIES TO ANY BIMMER.
Main engine fan (electric) is bad or fan clutch not working anymore, though even with a bad fan clutch and fully working cooling system you will not get overheating, unless you are in Dubai traffic:) AC fan is very effective even with a bad fan clutch. Since 2004 BMW uses only electric fan for both AC and engine, so if it goes bad, you will get overheating.

So, i was not going to create simple overheating article you can find anywhere, right? Its gotta be unique on this site! Here we go:

So what to do if there is no leaks and all hoses are new, gaskets etc, pressure tester confirmed no pressure loss, but engine still runs hot overheating transmission as well??? Did you know running hot will destroy all rubber gaskets and other rubber parts? Why? Because engine temps are not consistent like it was designed! Ok, here is something nobody cares about when trying to fix overheating issues:

NORMAL TEMPS FOR 6cyl=94-98 max

NORMAL TEMPS FOR 8cyl=103-108 max

TO CHECK RUNNING TEMPS YOU NEED TO OPEN HIDDEN MENU:

1) hold reset odometer button until you see the menu

2) go to 19 unlock menu (press button once) and enter (hold the button to enter) the sum of your last 5 vin numbers:

ex: last vin 23657, so sum=2+3+6+5+7=23

3) now go back to menu 7 and hold the button until you see running temps, if you don’t, it means you enter unlock code wrong:

here is a picture of running temps with RECALIBRATED 87C thermostat, these are actually really good temperatures for this and other V8 engines! It will keep your cooling system healthy and will prolong the life of all rubber gasket seals including valve seals. Moreover it will reduce detonation so you’ll get extra power in the city driving! Imagine lowering cooling pressure from 200 to 120??? 200 is what your tire pressure is. It is a big deal, all rubber gaskets run under serious stress and we see tons of exploded hoses, coolant tanks and other expensive leaks like:

wheep hole 2000$ if you install oem pipe

rear cover plate (Tranny needs to be removed)

valley pan (intake removal needed)

Soon we will offer these cooler temp tstats.

HEATER CONTROL VALVE! THIS VALVE DOES NOT LAST! RUBBER SEALS INSIDE BECOME BRITTLE, CLOGGING UP THE COOLANT CHANNELS GOING TO THE HEATER CORE! RESULT IS OBVIOUS=YOU CANNOT BLEED THE AIR OUT OF HEATER CORE=OVERHEATING! THIS ENGINE HAS SELF BLEEDING COOLANT SYSTEM, BUT IT WILL NOT WORK IF THIS VALVE IS CLOGGED.

HERE IS DISASSEMBLED HEATER VALVE FROM 2006 750LI with 98kmls. As you can see rubber seals are cracked and not flexible anymore, BUT if you have working auxillary water pump, you still get okay heat cabin, but system has air pocket, since you need very good flow when bleeding coolant system.

HERE IS THE MAIN PROBLEM: YOU SHOULD SEE A NICE RUBBER SEAL AROUND THE VALVE, BUT ITS ALL BROKEN AND THE WORST PART IT CLOGGED RIGHT CHANNEL COMPLETELY:

SO GOOD RECOMMENDATION IS TO REPLACE IT EVERY 5-7 YEARS AND START EVERY COOLANT SYSTEM PROBLEM FROM THIS VALVE REPLACEMENT. IF THIS VALVE IS GOOD YOU CAN DRIVE YOUR CAR EVEN WITH LEAKING COOLANT (I KNOW ITS NOT A GOOD IDEA), BUT YOU WILL NOT GET OVERHEATING ISSUES IF YOU KEEP ADDING COOLANT, BECAUSE ENGINE WILL BLEED ITSELF ALL THE TIME IF HEATER CORE HAS NO AIR POCKETS. REMEMBER COOLANT SYSTEM IS THE MOST IMPORTANT SYSTEM IN YOUR CAR!

SO UNTIL YOU SEE OIL IN THE COOLING SYSTEM, OR COOLANT IN THE OIL OR EXHAUST SMELL FROM COOLANT TANK, DO NOT BELIEVE IN THE HEAD GASKET FAILURE. WHEN HEAD GASKET IS BAD, YOU WILL KNOW IT FOR SURE:) V8, IS VERY STRONG ENGINE AND ITS NOT EASY TO DESTROY HEAD GASKET BY JUST OVERHEATING, DOESN’T APPLY TO STRAIGHT 6 THOUGH….

How to Troubleshoot MOST bus or how to find the faulty MOST unit ON ANY BMW, AUDI, PORSCHE, VW, MERCEDES BENZ and other cars with OPTICAL FIBRE OPTIC MOST network

86 Replies

In this post we will be describing how to diagnose MOST bus failure in any BMW, AUDI, PORSCHE, ROLLS ROYCE, RANGE ROVER HSE, BENTLEY with MOST fiber optic bus. every car has different configuration, but principle is still the same!

So in 2000 they introduced newer multimedia bus, called MOST, IT IS VERY NICE AND FAST NETWORK, SO THERE IS ENOUGH SPEED TO CONTROL EVERY MULTIMEDIA DEVICE AND THEY ELIMINATED LOTS OF COPPER WIRES IN THE CAR. NOW SOUND IS FULLY DIGITAL AND CLEANEST (BC NO SIGNAL LOSS ON THE WIRES), SO IT IS A GOOD THING, BUT ITS MORE COMPLEX AND NOT VERY RELIABLE.

So to start you need to understand that all MOST (multimedia) modules in the car work in the closed loop, which means if any device in the loop fails-none will be working.MOST bus primary signal (optical red light signal) is generated inside of the main computer, which is your main screen CID (control display or CID in E65 car only, other BMW have main computer incorporated into head unit or CCC/CIC/NBT etc), then it travels through all MOST network devices (ask unit, amp, navi, fm tuner, phone etc. depending on how many options you have) and comes back into main head unit. Basically all units connected in the loop- one unit fails=broken network! Once you understand this principle, you can easily find broken unit or network interruption, don’t forget dealer will charge up to 500-1000$++ for such a serious job! You don’t believe me? go and try, then you will understand how priceless with post is.

Your E65 E66 or Rolls Royce phantom ( yes don’t be surprised it is the same exact car as your 760li btw) car has MOST bus failure if:

-cannot hear any sounds or music

-cannot see tracks playing on the display

-fm stations not available

-navi isn’t functioning

For other BMW like e60/e90/e70/e89/f01 and others MOST BUS FAILURE symptoms are little different because primary head unit has 4-5 modules (SVS, ask unit, MOST GATEWAY, NAVI, Radio tuner) combined and therefore everything will work except for those secondary modules:
-amplifier no sound and you see mute icon on the radio or screen
-TCUM or telephone module
-SAT NAV receiver
Here is the MOST DEVICES order diagram , but this is only valid for basic order and only for pre 2006 cars, you might have way more devices in the network, so you have to figure it out yourself by looping eac modules and draw a diagram of the modules.
Here is a quick video showing how to find a bad unit in real time:

FOR 2006-2008 E65 E66 cars basic order will look like this:

MMIGT(screen)>>CDC>>AVT(if you have it)>>TEL>>SAT(hd RADIO)>>L7>>SVS>>NAVI>>ASK>>OOPS(GLOVE BOX MOST LOOP)>>MMIGT

FOR E60 E90 E63 E89 E90 E92 E93 and so on:

HEAD UNIT CCC/CIC/NBT>>L7AMP>>SAT>>TCU>>MULF>>HEAD UNIT

On these cars in most cases i see sat and amplifier unit failure very often, telephone module goes bad too but not that often.CCC navi units have a high rate failure, but the good thing once you replace it, you replace 5 modules at once, so its more reliable and much easier to find a faulty unit because you only have 2 or 3 modules to diagnose and all of them located in the trunk. We also offer CCC or CIC repair service
So to find out the faulty unit you either need to see a dealer (but even dealer makes mistakes), but here is an easy solution if you don’t have anything, and if you do it right it always works:

You need basically to find out where the most signal gets lost, after what device you don’t see the red light. In other words you will be checking the red light after every device in the network, and the one which is not sending the red light signal is your FAULTY MOST UNIT. OOPS is the last diagnostic connection located in the glove box and it has lollipop attached and it has to be looped there, some people think it is a spare jumper, but its not, without this jumper you will interrupt the network!

HOW TO BYPASS NON WORKING MODULE??? EASY! GET THIS P/N FROM ANY BMW DEALER 61136917541, YOU CAN GET IT ONLINE FROM ECS TUNNING ECS TUNNING FIBRE OPTIC JUMPER. YOU HAVE TO REMOVE INNER PART WITH SOME FLAT SCREWDRIVER OR A KNIFE, YOU CAN ALSO USE ZIP TIE IF YOU PLAN TO KEEP THE JUMPER BYPASSED, IRT WON’T STAY WITHOUT ZIP TIE.

most common MOST devices failure (descending from most common to less):

-SAT SIRIUS unit always goes bad, we will offer repair of this unit soon

–TCU TELEPHONE BLUETOOTH MODULE RECENTLY WE SEE TONS OF THEM FAILING!

-Logic7 amp AMP

-ask cd unit ASK

-navigation NAVI

-fm tuner

-CD itself main screen CID

-cd changer CDC

-SVS (gets flooded with hydraulic fluid from trunk opener cylinder, if you see sticky fluid on the NAVI, SVS- replace asap)

other modules. depending what you have in your car

Always check if you have red light in the glove box, disconnect that jumper and check for the light, if you found and bypassed bad unit correctly you should see the red light in the glovebox and then you can install the jumper and everything should start working. I know it sound complicated but once you understood how it works it is kind of very easy.

BUT PLEASE DO NOT BLINDLY BYPASS EVERY MODULE, LIKE LOTS OF PEOPLE DO, YOU MIGHT FIND THE PROBLEM, BUT ITS NOT EFFICIENT AND SOMETIMES YOU CANNOT DIAGNOSE IT RIGHT. ALSO MAKE SURE EVERY MODULE HAS 12v POWER. BASICALLY EVERY MODULE NEEDS FIBER OPTIC SIGNAL AND 12V POWER ATTACHED TO FUNCTION.TO WAKE UP MOST NETWORK IT IS ENOUGH TO OPEN/CLOSE THE DOOR, YOU DON’T HAVE TO START THE CAR, THE THING IS MOST GATEWAY WILL GO TO SLEEP AFTER 10 MINUTES IF NETWORK IS BROKEN AND TO WAKE IT UP YOU NEED TO OPEN/CLOSE ANY DOOR OR TURN ON THE RADIO.

THAT’S about it, IF YOU FOUND THE BAD MODULE YOU JUST SAVED 300-400$ AND TIME. REMEMBER LOTS BMW SHOPS STILL CANNOT DIAGNOSE IT RIGHT AND ALWAYS POINT TO ASK UNIT OR AMPLIFIER, “BECAUSE THERE IS NO SOUND”, WHICH IS NOT ALWAYS TRUE, I WOULD SAY IN 50% ITS NOT CORRECT EVEN FROM OFFICIAL DEALERS. WHY THEY MADE IT SO COMPLICATED AND NOT RELIABLE?? WELL THIS A FUTURE OF CARS AND TECHNOLOGY, YOU ARE THE ONE WHO ASKED TO HAVE ALL THESE TOYS IN THE CAR, SO YOU EITHER LEARN IT OR HAVE YOUR WALLET READY TO GET SKINNIER, OR BUY HONDA/TOYOTA….

Rolls Royce Phantom and BMW E65, E66 LOGIC7 AMPLIFIER AND ASK UNIT DIAGNOSTICS

212 Replies

The article below discusses common audio issues you may experience with your LOGIC7, standard ASK system, or both. The LOGIC7 amplifier and ASK module are used in the Rolls Royce Phantom and BMW E65, E66 models.

Please also click here to check our NEW product-Remote start for E65 E66 RR Phantom, nicest feature in your car!

THE AUDIO SYSTEM

The audio system is available in two variants, standard 6 speaker Hi-Fi, and BMW LOGIC7 also referred to as ‘Hi-Fi Professional DSP’, ‘Top Hi-Fi’ or ‘Premium DSP’.

The standard Hi-Fi system has the following configuration:

ASK Module:
– 2 Front Mid Range Speakers and Tweeters
– 2 Rear Deck Mid Range Speakers
– 2 Subwoofer Pre-outs (fed directly to Hi-Fi Amplifier)

Hi-Fi Amplifier:
– 2 Underseat Subwoofers

Summary:
Conventional analogue amplifier, analogue audio is received from the ASK module and amplified for the two subwoofer channels.

Common Failure Modes:
ASK:
– Failure of one or more front or rear deck speaker outputs, usually crackling, distorted or no audio output. This is an ASK related failure.
Hi-Fi Amplifier:
– The subwoofer amplifier is very reliable and rarely suffers any failure symptoms.

The LOGIC7 system has the following configuration:

ASK Module:
– 2 Front Mid Range Speakers and Tweeters
– 2 Rear Deck Mid Range Speakers

LOGIC7 Top Hi-Fi Amplifier:
– 1 Centre Mid Range Dashboard Speaker
– 2 Rear Door Mid Range Speakers
– 2 Underseat Subwoofers

Summary:
Digital amplifier with full DSP (Digital Signal Processing) and 7 channel graphic equaliser. The audio data is received from the ASK (Audio System Controller) via a fibre optic connection, it is decoded, processed to enhance the sound and staging effects before being converted back to analogue and fed to the internal 5 channel amplifier.

Common Failure Modes:
ASK:
– Failure of one or more front or rear deck speaker outputs, usually crackling, distorted or no audio output.
LOGIC7:
– Sub-woofer output failure, resulting in crackling, distorted or no bass output.
– One or more of the three mid range speaker output channels can suffer crackling, distorted or no audio output.

2002-2005 Pre Facelifted ASK UNIT (CD-Player)

2006-2008 Face lifted ASK UNIT (CD-Player)

Standard problems with ASK AUDIO CONTROLLER:

– crackling, static noise from front doors and rear deck speakers. No sound at all. Therefore it will affect all service sounds like:

-PDC (parking sensors) not beeping, no NAVI guide voice, door chimes, warning sounds etc.

– in some cases ask unit controller is not responding to fibre optic signals causing MOST fibre optic bus failure. But it does not mean the problem is your ask unit or Logic 7 amp, it could be any device in the MOST BUS network, to troubleshoot and find out which module is causing failure I will cover in details in my next post, stay tuned.

THIS VIDEO SHOWS HOW TO REMOVE LOGIC 7 AMPLIFIER

How to remove ASK CD PLAYER UNIT?? EASY!

LOGIC 7 TOP HIFI AMPLIFIER 2002-2008

FIRST GENERATION BAD DESIGN L7 AMPLIFIER 2001-2006:\

NOT ALWAYS FIXABLE…. 50% SUCCESS RATE.

GOOD AMPLIFIER DESIGN AFTER 2006. 4 CLIPS:

VERY GOOD SUCCESS RATE ABOUT 90%

BMW Logic7 amplifier is a fiber optic controlled amplifier with FIBRE OPTIC CONTROLLER AND HIGH SPEED 24 BIT DSP PROCESSOR, therefore you can not install regular aftermarket amp. It produces 5 channels:

-sub woofers under front seats 8″ shallow type

-rear doors

-front center speaker in the dash

Any problems with those speakers are related to the AMP and have nothing to do with the speakers most of the times, but sometimes sub woofers get flooded and therefore can be bad, causing amplifier failure. Speakers can be easily tested: it should show about resistance=4 Ohms.

Main problem is that modules inside the amplifier overheat and die, the only way to rebuild i is to replace it, unfortunately BMW or Becker made it impossible due to non standard mini modules. we redesigned the entire system and since 2009 we did not have any returns.

Please do not even think that capacitors went bad, it never happened, but you can always check them if they are ok, before replacing it (makes sense?). But since 2009 and ~280 amps fixed none of them had bad caps.

Another problem with Logic7 amps is that when it does not sound right, those burnt modules overheat entire amplifier causing Logic board to fail, so if your amp isn’t doing well its better not to use it and fix it ASAP.

In most of the cases, APPLIES TO CARS BEFORE 2004 (AFTER 2004 THEY CHANGED SOFTWARE AND SETTINGS ARE ADJUSTABLE EVEN WITHOUT ANY AMPLIFIER CONNECTED!) if Logic7 level AND EQ SETTINGS ARE adjustable in the menu (entertainment),

it means that logic board is still okay and it is fixable, but if you don’t have any sound, or if its cutting in and out, it means that Logic7 amplifier is causing MOST bus failure, and lots of things are not working in your IDRIVE:

-navigation isn’t working at all.

-is not showing consumption and other things.

-cd changer making noise trying to find a CD.

HOW TO BYPASS NON WORKING MODULE??? EASY!
HOW TO DIAGNOSE MOST BUS FAILURE ON ANY CAR WITH MOST FIBRE OPTIC NETWORKGET THIS P/N FROM ANY BMW DEALER 61136917541, YOU CAN GET IT ONLINE FROM ECS TUNNING ECS TUNNING FIBRE OPTIC JUMPER. YOU HAVE TO REMOVE INNER PART WITH SOME FLAT SCREWDRIVER OR A KNIFE, YOU CAN ALSO USE ZIP TIE IF YOU PLAN TO KEEP IT

In my next Post i will cover how to diagnose MOST bus failure and what device causing it, because it could be any device in the MOST bus network, and to find it out you either need bmw software and cable or i will explain the way on how to diagnose it without anything.

IF YOU DECIDED YOU NEED HELP WITH REPAIR, PLEASE SEND YOUR AMPLIFIER OR ASK UNIT OR BOTH (550$X2) HERE ALONG WITH 550$ PAYPAL PAYED TO LOGIC7REPAIR@GMAIL.COM.

We have also EBAY add, so you can see real feedback.CLICK THIS LINK BELOW, MAKE A 550$ PAYMENT, PRINT A RECEIPT AND INCLUDE IT IN THE BOX WITH YOUR AMPLIFIER OR ASK UNIT AND SEND IT TO OUR ADDRESS (SEE BELOW). USUALLY IT TAKES 1-2 DAYS TO REBUILD IT AND 2-3 DAYS SHIPPING. INEXPENSIVE AND FASTEST SHIPPING IS USPS PRIORITY MEDIUM OR LARGE BOX (15$).

if your car facelifted 2006 and up, its 99% guaranteed its fixable.

before 2005 logic7 amplifiers are not always fixable, so if you have cutting in and out, or it plays only from front speakers and Logic7 level is not adjustable, most likely we cannot help, but you can still bypass it and install standard amp, though it will not sound like original one, though much cheaper.

IF YOU ARE STILL HAVING PROBLEMS DIAGNOSING YOUR AMP FAILURE PLEASE GIVE US A CALL OR TXT IF NO ANSWER, SO WE WILL CALL YOU BACK, BUT PLEASE READ THE ARTICLE FIRST, IT EXPLAINS A LOT IF NOT EVERYTHING.

NOTE: If you don’t have any sound and cannot see NAVI, FM stations, CD tracks changing or playing, it means you have at least one device failure in the MOST network and you have to find out which one (most common are: NAVI, SVS, CD changer, ASK, L7, FM tuner) is causing this problem, i will be describing it in my next post.

BAVLOGIC, LLC