In this unique article i will describe why your engine feels weak and you don’t feel low end torque anymore.
So you cannot find any faults in DME and no lights are on, everything is clean, but you feel your V8 runs like 4 cylinder KIA on lows? It applies to all bmw with n62 engines: E53, E63,E65, E66, E64, E60 and others.
Probably you heard about IVM failure main symptom:
-it will not start when you press the button, like no cranking at all, but it might start the next time or in few secs. It also might throw few errors in CAS because it didn’t start.
Yes, this happens when IVM went out completely and you are lucky if you got this symptom and you replaced IVM and found out it runs so much better and no issues at all.
Well, but in most (90%) cases it will not fail completely and will not show any symptoms and errors will be thrown. For example in my case, i didn’t have any faults, but i was trying to find out why i have:
-Weak torque o low rpms 2-3k rpm, it just feels weak, gets better if it gets past 4-5k
-weak response when you press the gas pedal
-delay hesitation on take off
-transmission shifts incorrectly and feels like it shifts to higher gear too early. Like it will shift to 5th gear, but there is no power for it.
-sometimes you feel slight vibration on idle
-on HWY you feel like you need to constantly press the gas pedal otherwise it will slow down a lot. IN OTHER WORDS IT DOESN’T PULL BEFORE 4000K
-MPG is very bad
Anyways after spending some time and lots of money, honestly, it was very annoying and upsetting, so i was about to get rid of my car, because it doesn’t feel V8 at all, it simply feels like 4 cylinder honda or something like this. You press on the gas and it doesn’t go, you have to press to 4000rpm to make it moving!!!! So after i tested my engine compression, transmission and all diagnostics showed up no errors, i was upset, because nothing else was left! I even replaced fuel pump though old one was showing ok pressure etc. NOBODY COULD TELL ME WHAT WAS WRONG.
and inside after T40 torxs were taken out:
And at some point i decided to open IVM since i was replacing the Ebox fan ( if you have ebox fan error, i strongly recoomen to replace it, because it helps to cool down ecu, and if it overheats it will cost you thousands easily). So what i found in IVM??? First what is IVM???
IVM is an INTEGRATED VOLTAGE MODULE, but in reality is just a relay module with 12 mini nice looking 4$ relays, yes simple relays, and everything looked good, except for DME RELAY!! 2 legs had soldering points cracked!! I assume they use silver solder and it cannot withstand the heat !! so…. you understand now what happens if DME relay points don’t have a good contact? yes, injectors will not get a good signal and cannot open like they should and probably same thing for ignition! As a result engine runs like crp:) 
After i repaired it, my N62 started running like brand new! and now i get 17/25 mpg easy! after that i saw about 30 cars and all of them had same issue, but nobody complained about engine torque:) they thought it was supposed to be like this! this is repaired IVM:
I recommend to install a new one if you are not ok with soldering or try to solder it yourself and save 80$. Always clean contacts from old solder and sand it as much as you could and use old school lead based solder with good flux.
TRY IT AND ENJOY, EVEN IF YOU THINK EVERYTHING IS OK WITH YOUR CAR!! TAKES 10 MINS TO REMOVE. DO NOT BELIEVE THE DEALER THAT NOTHING IS WRONG WITH YOUR CAR BECAUSE COMPUTER DIDN’T SHOW ANY ERRORS, NOTHING IS PERFECT SO IS BMW, IT CANNOT DIAGNOSE ITSELF 100%. I FOUND THIS PROBLEM ON 30+ cars and counting! ITS A DESIGN FLAW, BUT BMW WILL NOT RECALL IT, THEY WILL ONLY REPLACE IT WHEN YOU GET NO START ERRORS!!!
Wow!!!! I’m experiencing this problem now. I’m at the point where I’m considering selling my 2006 750li for a Mercedes S550 after 7 years of ownership. It’s insane to me how little most mechanics know about these vehicles and their design flaws. I’ve spoke with multiple bmw mechanics and transmission specialist and I almost replaced my torque converter against all of their recommendations. Thanks for the share!
you need to rebuilt mechatronic valve body at least
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Does the new one needs to be programmed ? Should I disconnect the battery when replacing it ?
NO ITS JUST A RELAY BOX
You are a genius thank you running like new
My 2006 e65 has been sluggish at slower speeds and I have to kick it in the a** to get going. Cleaned vanos solenoids and replaced seals. This made a difference, but not all the way.
Ran across this write-up and decided to try it. Mine has no codes showing. My contacts looked a lot better than yours, but one seemed a little discolored like arcing had been taking place. Re-soldered one joint. This seems to have made a difference. 30 minutes later and I don’t notice the hesitation anymore. Thank you
new vanos solenoids will make a difference
I have a 2006 750i with the symtoms. It also shows codes p2178 p2180 p2187 and p2189 (rich AND lean on both banks). Could a bad IVM cause the codes?
no
I changed my ivm it ran well for about 2 weeks then it goes into inactive auto cruise and immediately engine malfunction and it also has issues starting sometimes but if I leave it overnight next day start it’s back to normal
Please assist as loosing my mind and money
need to scan it with ista
I have a 2008 BMW 750i, i just recently replaced the Valley pan and valve cover gasket and timing cover and the Alternator bracket gasket.. I also cleaned the solenoid and replaced the O-Rings on them.. Took car to smog and passed.. but since then car turned off on me 3 times different days(while i was at a stop).. one time she didnt turn on(i had to wait 20mins then she turned on).. I have replaced the battery and registered it.. No check engine light either or code.. please help..Would it be the IVM?
ivm most likely
Was having issues (as well as the others going to explain) where there would be a 5-6 second delay between shifting into reverse and the car mechanically doing so
So I changed the solenoids and eliminated the issue. I thought the following would be related to this, but obviously not. I was going to change vanos solenoids but your post sounded exactly like what I thought. I changed the IMV today and it seems that there is more power there but I still have these issues
– after cold start idles at 700rpm very smoothly – after driving idles at about 550 maybe 500rpm, almost feels like a slight misfire but needle doesn’t really move
– delay when touching accelerator pedal, feels like an inch or so is flat/dead, then kinda jolts when you get to the kick down
– revs up a little (300-800rpms)sometimes when slowing to a stop.
“Secret menu” says volts are normal I think 12.4 and 14.1-14.3 started
I don’t know
could be vacuum leaks, you need to scan it. vanos solenoids do get old and it could be it
Have you had any solution to this? I am currently experiencing the reving of 300-800 rpms when slowing down and the 550-500rpm idle. Also have no codes or other issues popping up.
could be tc if engine is all ok
Lot fo thanks bro I got same problem I fix thanks
Hi,
Car E65 735, cranking but no start or start like 1 cylinder just for sec.
i’ve checked everything on this car and it’s all good except this
Low voltage in All 8 injectors .
Note:
1. All wires from DME to injectors are OK.
2. Scan using INPA No error Code.
3. if i put little fuel in the intake filter the car start 100% V8 agine
What do you think? a bad IVM?
dme or harness