What you are supposed to know about your ZF6HP26, 6HP19, 6HP28 and similar ford Transmissions.
It applies to all BMW, Jaguar, Bentley, Rolls Royce, Maserati, Audi and others with ZF 6HP26, 6HP19, 6HP28
In this post i will be explaining why you have transmission issues like:
-harsh shift 2-1
-not able to shift into park when hot
-weak torque feeling
-gear speed ratio faults
-other faults
All highlighted problems you can experience even on low miles cars less than 70-80k, it depends on at what speeds your car mostly runs. On the highway this tranny will easily last 200-300kmls. AND EVERYTHING IS RELATED TO VALVE BODY PRESSURE LOSS DUE TO SOLENOIDS OR ACTUAL VALVE BODY SEALING GASKETS LEAKING INSIDE, BUT BETTER DO BOTH. DRIVING WITH LEAKING VALVE BODY WILL EVENTUALLY WEAR OUT ACTUAL TRANSMISSION HARDWARE.
BEST ADVICE FOR YOU: SINCE 99% issues with this trannies are related to valve body fluid pressure loss, I strongly recommend new (re manufactured) valve body from ZF (expensive 1600$), (you can find some companies offer this rebuild, but they charge almost new VB price, or rebuild it yourself with NEW SOLENOIDS PACK (300-400$) and SONNAX zip kit (150$). If after you rebuilt or replaced valve body and RESET ADAPTATIONS USING BMW SOFTWARE INPA OR ISTA IS A MUST, OR YOU WON’T SEE ANY DIFFERENCE AFTER REBUILT, BECAUSE TCM KNOWS VALVE BODY PRESSURE VALUES AND THEY MUST BE RESET. IF AFTER REBUILT, it’s not shifting well, it means YOU WAITED TOO LONG WITH VALVE BODY REBUILT AND DESTROYED transmission hardware (bushings or actual clutches failed) and you need to rebuild it, but like i said main problem STARTS at valve body and then if not fixed in time you get worn out transmission. All those jolts, bumps or harsh shifts cause premature wear and tear on your tranny. Rule of the thumb is not to drive it if it jerks,or shifts wrong.
replacing just solenoids without rebuilding valve body, where accumulators/pistons always go bad after 60-70k, will not get you perfect results, but might improve shifting quality. Remember-cheap people usually pay twice (no offense).
So you hate the way tranny shifts and dealer and other shops didn’t find any faults and told youit is what it is and this is how it is intended to work! Well it is total lie they are trying to get rid of you with.
In fact ZF 6HP26 6hp19, 6hp28 is a very good transmission, powerful, bullet proof pretty much if serviced in time and proper fluid pressure maintained! This tranny is still considered one of the best and has carbon clutches vs cheap paper ones you can find on Japanese cars. But this tranny has very serious and very
important weak spots you have to take care of:
-First thing first check tranny temperatures. If it is higher than 95C, then most likely you have a problem with tranny cooling system or your engine cooling has some leaks causing running it very hot.
Usually high temps indicate following:
1) engine cooling system problem- air bauble or airlock
2) if everything is good with cooling system, check your tranny oil cooler- it gets clogged up pretty often and also indicates that some clutches or TC clutch is worn out and that debris clogged oil cooler.
3) worn out TC clutch slipping overheating transmission fluid.
Your good engine temps are 103-105C and if it climbs to 107-110C in traffic, it means you’ve got a leak :
-lower radiator hose sensor leaking (usually shows a white residue around the sensor)
-valley pan under intake
-rear cover plate between tranny and engine. Very common after 100k or 8-10yrs.
-coolant tank cracked
-radiator cap leaking pressure
-coolant pipe seal leaking
-other cooling issues
It is very important to keep temps in specs not only because of few degrees, but because with leaking
cooling system you lose coolant pressure introducing air in the system, causing uneven cooling and overheating both engine and tranny. Good OEM specs are 103-105 cycle when idling and lower hose should be hot around 60-80C. When you drive it tstat is controlled by ECU therefore it keeps it cool on the freeway.
Easy way to test your cooling system
1) Disconnect aux pump connector assuming aux pump is working (they fail often)
2) Drive your car to warm engine well
-
-
- Turn on heater on hot but low speed
- check if you get hot air from vents for 10 minutes.
- If after a minute you noticed your heater is not hot anymore, it means you’ve got a leak!
- This Engine has self bleeding cooling system, which means you cannot get air pocket if system is well sealed.
-
So if engine temps are good and tranny still runs hot 100-110, it means heat exchanger is clogged with tranny clutches, TC wear and tear dirt. Replace it and check if it got better. This tranny will die quick if temps are not good.
–MECHATRONIC ADAPTER SEAL.
This adapter (number 2) usually lasts only 60-70kmls (BMW lifetime). Replace it every 60kmls even if tranny shifts well. It is very important because it keeps your mechatronic valve body under specified pressure therefore it controls how clutches are pressed! Which means if your gasket is weak your tranny clutches are not pressing well on each other causing premature wear and tear, also tranny pump and TC clutch will be affected. This square seal also can CRACK, in this case you will get tranny fail safe errors and even clutches slipping ERRORS, causing very quick TRANNY DEATH. DON’T DRIVE YOUR CAR IF YOU’RE GETTING ANY TRANNY FAULTS, EVEN AFTER RESTART TRANNY ERRORS GO AWAY FOR A WHILE, IT IS NOT A TRANNY COMPUTER GLITCH!!!
http://www.thectsc.com/products/mechatronic-seal-adapter-6hp26-6hp28-6hp32-42-52.html
YES THIS SMALL, CHEAP GASKET CAN DAMAGE YOUR TRANSMISSION PRETTY BAD.
-OTHER 4 RUBBER PIPE SEALS.
They 5,6,7 also control clutch pressure, but even if they are flattened pretty bad transmission won’t give you any errors. Its always good idea to replace it- you’ll notice a difference how your tranny shifts. WWW.RMEUROPEAN.COM has these seals under transmission parts section.
–SOLENOID KITS. 2 TYPES
-MOST COMMON E65, YOU DON’T NEED PARKING SOLENOIDS SINCE THEY DON’T GO BAD OFTEN, SO YOU CAN USE M-SHIFT SOLENOIDS, BUT YOU CAN GET E-SHIFT PACK AS WELL, WHICH IS 200$ MORE.
http://www.thectsc.com/products/solenoid-kit-6hp19/26/32-m-shift-36-45.html
Yes they go bad and are not simple solenoids you used to know from old school trannies. Now these are pressure regulators and they do not only work open\close operation, they control pressure and after so me time they get clogged, overheat, etc. So if your tranny temps are good and your tranny shifts hard, it could be your solenoids. Its good idea to replace them every 100k, because they control everything in the tranny. You will be surprised how tranny shifts with new solenoids. And you don’t need 2 parking solenoids, so you can use 200$ cheaper kit, which fits 5,6 series without E-SHIFT. Also dont be scared if you open your transmision and find out that color is not the same- relax it changed color because of temps and age. There are two types of kitsAll the parts at very good prices can be found here:
http://www.thectsc.com/catalog/mechatronic-parts-52.html
-GUIBO FLEX DISC. They usually go bad after BMW lifetime period 60-70k.
Common Symptoms:
a) hard 2-1 sift
b) at stop you can hear clunking when shifting from P-R-D
c)overall tranny shifting quality
-Tranny fluid level.
Yes due to leaking oil pan gasket you might loose some fluid. Always check tranny oil pan for leaks and tranny fluid level (use BMW sealed tranny fluid level check procedure). It is always better to install metal oil pan- it never leaks and cheaper to maintain!
You can add BMW OEM PENTOSIN brand fluid or you can use MOBIL1 or CASTROL synthetic ATF fluid (10$/qt) import multi vehicle formula, believe it or not it has same specs if not better than BMW fluid and works great. Tested for 160kmls. BMW will only recommend OEM FLUID of course, but its up to you, so please do not comment here that different than OEM fluid will kill the tranny. But always make sure it has the same specs of course. Mostly Dextron 6 fluid applies as well for this trannies.
UPDATE: TRANSMISSION RUNS MUCH BETTER WITH OEM ZF FLUID OR SHELL M1375.4 FLUIDS, SO BETTER SPEND FEW MORE BUCKS FOR CORRECT FLUID. FEBI OR ZF WILL WORK GREAT. SOME USE FORD FLUID, SINCE ITS THE SAME TRANSMISSION BUT FLUID IS MUCH CHEAPER.
-Torque converter clutch.
Yes it can go bad just like any clutch, because this tranny engages this clutch very early causing premature wear and tear. In sport mode it can engage clutch as early as at first gear!! That’s why we get decent mpg from this tranny. In other words it is more like a manual tranny with torque converter working only at very low speeds and low rpm. So I would not recommend driving it very aggressively in the city, unless you enjoy paying 4-5k for a new tranny. Don’t forget this tranny handles 300-400hp and some impressive torque. Driving in normal mode, TC can last up to 300kmls!!
most common symptoms of bad clutch:
-sometimes when clutch is very bad it will throw 1721 error clucth slip
-bad MPG. Without TC clutch your car is still driveable, but you can feel its very weak even though engine feels strong
-after 4th gear tachometer arrow is not steady
-weak pickups, downshifting when driving uphill
-bad slipping clutch will overheat tranny pump and finally will kill internal tranny parts (clucths, valve body, seals, etc)
good news you can have your TC rebuilt for around 300$ and from personal experience i must say its not as perfect as new, but decent still.
IMPORTANT NOTE: DON’T FORGET TO RESET TRANSMISSION ADAPTATIONS AFTER ANY REPAIR DONE ON THE TRANSMISSION!!! IF YOU DON’T RESET IT, TRANNY WON’T SHIFT ANY BETTER BECAUSE IT REMEMBERS BAD VALUES. SOME PPL THINK PRESSING GAS PEDAL AND SAYING SOME MAGIC WORDS RESETS TRANSMISSIONS EGS ADAPTATIONS IS A TOTAL MADE UP JOKE. YOU CAN ONLY RESET IT WITH BMW SOFTWARE INPA, ISTA, AND SOME OTHER SOFTWARE SNAP ON ETC.
I know its a long list of issues, but if you take care of your tranny every 80-100kmls it pays for itself pretty good. Most important thing for this tranny is correct fluid pressure and temps, other parts like clutches are very durable and made with highest quality standard. Don’t forget the same tranny they still install on newest Bentley, Rolls Royce, Audi, Maserati and other luxury brands. This tranny is way more reliable than Mercedes one or Lexus trannies with same specs. Great prices on BMW parts you can get from www.rmeuropean.com, they are pretty good and sell only OEM parts from original suppliers. All transmission parts you can find here http://www.thectsc.com/catalog/6-speed-parts-113.html
Hello, great information. Is there any way to program the shift points of a ZF6HP26? Thanks, Antonio
what do you mean by shifting points??? you mean firmware?? you can update it but shifting points is not easy unless you wanna hack it
A tuner can adjust the load ratings in the engine’s computer, that the trans relates to. This is useful for when the engine power has been increased significantly from stock. A tuner can also adjust the shift pressures.
Sonnax zip kits are also helpful for these transmissions.
I have 650i 2007 when i get to a syop i loose 1st gear for like 2 seconds then it comes back any ideas
solenoids…. everything is described already
Hi I’m having issues when my car sits overnight I’m getting a hesitation from 1st to 2nd more noticeable when cold outside but once car warms up problem goes away untill the next morning. I’ve also had all vavle body sleeves adapter seal and mechatronic plug changed.Can you please help me been trying to figure this out. Thanks in advance
solenoids issuue
hi I have same problem with my 2012 bmw 750li ,in the morning when the car is cold from 2nd to 3 th gear slip but once warms up goes away also,i put new clutches ,bushing,o-rings and sleeves ,any help please
could be actual mechatronic ecu problem, we see this often
I get the symptoms of a bad TCC. it engages but is weak under 2000 rpm. I replaced the torque converter, but it did not fix the problem. possible solenoid issue?
you need valve body rebuilt or new valve body from ZF
how much pay should somebody pay for such a task if they cant do it themselves?
WELL, you did it once yourself and burned the amplifier, so did it worth it?
does remanufactured mechatronic zf transmission really work?
it works as brand new if done right and tested.
zf unit is also rebuilt
Hi excellent article, I have a ZF 6HP28 Tranny in my Audi A4 3.0 TDI Quattro and i have no drive in any gears the clutch is not engaging and the only fault code im getting is 1588 powertrain control module overtemperture condition. Do you think if i replaced all the gaskets it will solve my problem. I have checked the Ohms on all solenoids and they are 5.1 for all but the black 1 which is 10.6. Thanks
well you have overheating issue, and you should resolve it first. check heat exchanger or replace it.
but consider valve body rebuilt or replace it with new one form ZF 1600$ though
I have a 6hp26 from a 2003 Jaguar XKR I bought with 102K miles and not running. I went to change the fluid in it to your recommended ZF Life guard since I have it out of the car. Inside I found the Shift Position Sensor part of the Transmission Control Module was cracked. I took it out and off the valve body.
Where can I get another one?
What about a Ford one and having it reprogrammed?
Is it possible that when I took the shift cable off I damaged it? I was having trouble with the getting it off.
Thanks!
welll everyhting is possible, everythinng is breakable. not sure what happened but you need another valvebody, get it rebuilt instead and it will shoft like new
I have a cycling revs issue driving only after a oil and filter change this has become noticeably more prominent
options :
1 Replace with used box cost 570 euro
2 Recondition box 2200 euro
3 Investigate further to find exact problem
I am considering used replacement
any suggestions welcome
by the way no fault codes smooth gear changes
you need to rebuild valve body, if it didnt help it is your torque converter is worn out.
Hello!
I have this transmission in my 2003 XKR.
My problem is that the rpm when the engine is cold goes up and down when driving. The biggest problem is that the transmission makes squik noice when i make a kickdown from gear 6 to 5. The transmission goes in to safemode. I have changed the oil but I still have the same problem. Need your advice here.
Regards
Magnus
sounds like valve body problem or and torque converter, but first you need valve body rebuilt
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Hello, I have a 2009 750Li and there is certain times when I drive the car cold and put it into park, the gear selector light will toggle between P and N. You can hear something clicking just below the gear selector as well. I will let the vehicle roll when putting it into park and it engages. It does not pop out of Park when this happens. I have never noticed this happen after the vehicle warms up. Do I have a bad solenoid/park cylinder in the mechatronics unit, or is it a gear selector issue? Can I get away with a solenoid kit if it is in the transmission? Thanks alot!!
1) read EGS errors in ista or any other tool
2) most likely yu need to replace at least square gasket between mechatronic
3) mechatronic valve body rebuilt
Hi, I recently had revs jumping up and down slightly whilst driving more so on an incline, had the oil and filter and sump changed, still did the same, was told buy a transmission place it was the torque converter, so spoke to a local garage who said they could do the job, had the torque converter sent away to be reconditioned, refit back and new oil again replaced with ZF oil they said it took just over 9 litres, but since having car back I have a shuddering once I go over 25-30 mph and it gets worse up to 60-70. the gear changes on the car feel very smooth, I have had the rubber coupling on the drive shaft changed and had the wheels balance but no difference.
torque converter clutch slipping, get TC rebuil alojg with valve body and square a=gasket
Hello , I have a x5 2005 , have a delay to get reverse , and when I get to a red light I feel a strong hit like other car crash in my rear bumper,what can check it out, thank u very much for your help
valve body rebuilt is your option.
This is a great article and spot on. For those questioning whether a rebuilt valve body is necessary, if absolutely is if you are experiencing the symptoms described. I have a 2009 E64 650 and had all symptoms described with multiple tranny faults and safe mode experiences. Had the valve body rebuilt at 75k miles. Works like new; back to the screamer I knew it as. Only difference is our shop built it from scratch out of brass instead of aluminum. Documented the entire process and shared with ZF. Been one year since rebuild, it wasn’t cheap but totally worth it.
Great article, quick one , 2004 bmw 530i the faults are 4f85 , 4f8a and 4f84 , the transmission as being rebuild but the same symptom still there when shift from 4 to 5 (sleeping) transmission fault light come on.
valve body was rebuilt and adaptatios reset?
I have a zf 6hp26 in a X5 that on a cold start has a hard hesitation when you accelerate. It only does it on complete cold start and only once then it drives and shifts fine. Any ideal what it could be?!
Thanks Paul
you need valve body rebuilt or at least change square gasket, it most likely leaking ressure
Hi
This is a great write up, thank you!
I have a 2004 E65 745Li and it drives fine when cold. But in traffic it is not a smooth gear engage into 1st (as it should not be noticeable) it is a bit of a gentle jolt. Once the car is up to full temperature and I put it in park, it wont go back to drive or reverse, it gives an error on the dash. If I restart then it is usually fine but might roll forward first and then really jolt hard into gear. Checked transmission fluid level and it is 100% fine. Indi says that it needs a new tranny as fault codes say clutch is slipping. Does this sound right?
Thank you!
first try to get valve body rebuilt and pay attention and what temps your tranny is running, if its running too hot you will gw all kind of slipping etc
I have an Indian bmw e90 2008.it has 95000 kms ini it.shows transmission faulty error when shifting from 4th to 5th 90 percent of the time.and sometimes in 3rd to 4th too.it is smooth till gear 3.have tried driving in manual also.sometimes I am able to shift gear at a good time so it doesn’t get a fault.and fault goes after restarting.it changes smoothly when I accelerate more.and sometimes has problem in downshifting as well.got transmission fluid topped up from company.the service manager told me that it won’t make any difference even if you flush and fill fresh fluid.600 ml was topped up and it was full.still problem didn’t go away.
Obd shows codes
4f85
4f89
4f83
4f8a
Thankyou
valve body pressure loss, better rebuild it
you need valve body rebuilt along with square gasket replacement. driving like this puts enoromous wear on the clutches
05 525i
Dtc 4e25 electronic pressure contol valve 6
What would be required to fix that?
Thanks in advanced!
solenoid went bad, but i still recommend full vb rebuilt
Hi, I have a zf 6hp19 with issues, 2005 Audi A4 B7 Quattro
Downshifting to 2nd gear has a thud?
Upshifting to 2nd not very smooth?
Thanks
solenoids, seals, reset, if no luck rebuild
Thanks 👍
this article seems to be the best single source of information regarding common issues with the 6hp26. Wondering if I could get the thoughts of someone more knowledgeable than me. Sitting in the driveway, in Park the gear shifter in the cabin will click occasionally (as if trying to shift into gear) in Drive (with the brake on) the car will attempt to shift just about every 2 seconds (like a clock). It will click, the “D” indicator in the instrument cluster will blink and the RPMs will rise slightly and fall. It will do this twice every 2 seconds until I put it back into park. Keep in mind once you start driving, it is smooth as can be, shifts and drives flawlessly.
valve body problem, you need to diagnose clutrch adapation numbers or get valve body rebulilt. they dont last more tan 70k
I have a ZF6HP26 in 4.2 XK8, OK when cold but when at running temp’ the trans’ whines on light throttle. It shifts ok and does not slip, any ideas please ?
could be torque converter or valve body leaking pressure. you need to check clutch adaptation values
This is all great information Bravo!
E93 2007 335cic mileage: 53,300. No problems shifting into drive from park however seems like the vehicle is stuck in 2nd gear (will not shift into any other gear). Trans warning light stays on and cannot reset fault.
Fault: FC 4F90 EGS RATIO MONITORING GEARSHIFT 2-1
I’m thinking about changing out the solenoids and seals/gaskets. What do you think?
mechatronic needs rebuilt or you can call it valve body
This is Jeff
Have a 2007 Bmw 750 il. Stereo has lost most of audio power. Front speaker work pretty good w no distortion,
Rear speakers in rear doors and subs sound like they are blown and very weak and crackley with no definition when playing the stereo or cd.
Turned fader all the way up to front speakers and there is no static but stereo lacks a lot of volume and power.
What do u think? The stereo itself works and all functions work but the sound quality.
Jeff
423-361-1638
both units need rebuilt. ask unit and amplifier
my E90 320i is holding gear and not shifting up . its only one forwarg gear and reverse , i am getting CC ID 254 .
valve body problem, pressure loss or solenoid stuck
I have 04 530i
I feel a jerk after putting the car on drive
All gears seems to engage fine once the car is driving.
Not sure what’s causing this issue , here is the fault code
Gearbox control unit
Module Identification
Hardware Number 7543092 Hardware Version Number 71 Coding Index 00 Diagnostic Index 0201 Variant Index 3253 Date Of Manufacture 20031022 System Supplier Bosch Message Catalog Version 0.13.150 Software Version 20.36.0 OS Version 2.3.10 Current Fault Codes
4FB0
Gearbox: Internal error (EPROM/FLASH)
Error will not cause a warning light
Error is currently present
Test conditions have been completed
4FB1
Gearbox: Internal error (EEPROM)
Error will cause a warning light
Error is currently present
Test conditions have been completed
valve body computer eprom failure. try to update software first, if no good get another ecm
hi
i am from South africa , Johannesburg
I am looking for a control solonoid shift valve for a 530 i 2005 bmw
EDS2 shift solonoid . on transmission valve body
Please can you advise if you can supply ,or if you can recomend someone in Johannesburg that can supply .
cell.0714841957
i recommend you to get entire valve body rebuilt at revmax.com
Hi,
I have a 2009 BMW 750i (F01). I am having harsh shifting and surging especially when going up hill in the morning (cold). I am also having periodic lockups where the transmission won’t shift to the next higher gear. Specific example, today after accelerating from a red light, once I got to around 35-40mph, the transmission would not shift to the next gear. The engine went up to 5500 rpm and about 50mph before I let my foot off the gas. But even then the car would not shift up until the speed went back down to around 40mph and then the car surged foward and I could accelerate again. Your thoughts on what is going are appreciated. Dealer has not been able to completely diagnose. Just replaced Guibo and things got better (2-1 shift and clunk noises have gone away), but this inconsistent shifting and lockup still is happening
get valve body rebuilt, if it doesn’t help, then you need entire tranny rebuilt. bottom line -dont drive it, because it puts enormous wear on the clutches
I have an E60 2004 BMW. It has clocked 70K mls. I recently got an error message” Transmission Fault. Get the car checked by BMW service centre”
The gearbox gets stuck mostly between 1 and 2 , and occasional when reversing uphill.
When I take the car to my mechanic, and he clears the message using the diagnostic computer the gear shifts are back to normal for a short while but seem not to be very smooth.
I have been forced to drive the car in Sports/Manual mode which does not result in this problem but as soon as i change to automatic the vehicle will not move for long before it gets stuck again between Gears 1&2 especially in traffic
My mechanic recommended that i replace transmission yet another mechanic said i need to check on state of solenoid switch.
What would you recommend
no, you need valve body rebuilt professionally or get rebuilt one from ZF
Hello, i have a bmw e60 lci 525d and i can’t engage Driver or reverse or manual, it jumps in Park.Is bock valve ?
you need to check valvebody first or replace it with rebuilt one.
Just bought this 2009 528i Drive perfectly last 2 months. No oil leaks. Shifts great drives great. Now have had multiple trans malfunctions while speeding up down shifting. Shut it down and it runs fine. Unless u down shift again it doesn’t do it all the time. But seems to be happening more often. I’m thinking just the square gasket??? But obviously I’m going to have to get into the pan. Right? Mechanic told the wife it was a glitch. Drive it.
square gasket is a must every 70kmls or 5-7yrs.
if it doesnt help, get valve body rebuilt. could be aullty solenoid or accumulator went flat.DONT DRIVE IT!!!! OR YOU KILL ACTUAL CLUTCHES
2009 BMW 335d with 47,500 miles. Pops out of gear 3-4 shift and then free rev with Gear indicator on dash. Cycle on and off with key clears warning and drives normally. Only happens once in a great while. Code pulled 4F85 “Ratio monitor clutch E plausibility”. I want to replace pan/filter, fluid and square adapter gasket. Think this will help?
IT MIGHT HELP, BUT DOUBT IT, VALVE BODY REBUILT IS A MUST. I BELIEVE 3 SERIES TRANNY HAS BETTER GASKET VS 7 SERIES 6HP26
This is great info that tells me exactly what I need to do, but where can I find a qualified ZF repair specialist to do the repairs for me?
REVMAX.COM
Hi,
I have an 06 Range Rover. The trans shifts great all the time. Only issue is that once it goes into closed loop, the RPM’s will surge between 30mph and 55mph under light or moderate throttle. Most notable when lightly excellerting or climbing a hill. It’s been re flashed. No codes. It surges in rhythm and does not chatter. I thought it was an engine surge at first but it must be the converter locking and unlocking. Had it at the dealer for two weeks and they were dealing with their hot line service. And they couldn’t find the cause. In the end they suggested to replace the converter and the valve body and see what happens. But to me the converter doesn’t seem to be bad. Shifting manually it is fine other than a weird second gear surge or a type of hesitation when Revving it out. Hopefully just a valve body rebuild?
Thanks in advance
VALVE BODY REBUILT FIRST, AND THEN IF STILL ISSUES-CONVERTER
6hp28 tranny in bmw 330d with 200k miles. Shuddering under throttle in 5th gear like its slipping a bit and revs rise/fall. Can get a knock and bump if manually shifting 4th to 5th under throttle. Ratio monitoring code 4th to 5th if forced to cause the fault. Slight 2/1 downshift clunk and slight delayed into reverse and clunk sometimes. New/rebuild transmission time ?? One place suggested I send them valve body for testing, just worried a clutch is already gone and would be wasting money?
hi, no it would not be a waste of money. It could be the clutch is gone bc at 200kmls you never rebuilt a vb, but if you rebuild a vb and then if problem is still there, you just need actual tranny clutches rebuilt. all i meant is its not gonna be a waste, but there is a high chance it might fix everything. also dont forget to reset tranny adaptations after new vb installed.
I have a 03 745li with 185k. Transmission was replaced at 115k by dealer, but now, it is overheating while in Drive with the brake on (red light or traffic). It isn’t the engine since I’ve checked the temps with INPA, and the tranny can reach 115 degrees C. It cools down when the car it’s moving or in Park. I get no error codes except when it reaches that temp, it shifts at high RPMs (3500-4500). I also do get the hard 2-1 downshift clunk most of the time. No other clunk while moving in Drive or Reverse. I am guessing it can be the Torque Converter, since I’ve replaced the fluid, and filter, and VB seals. The VB looks perfect with no discoloration on the solenoids. Any Ideas? Or do I need a new transmission? I greatly appreciate your input.
115 IS WAY TOO HIGH. WHAT THE ENGINE TEMPS? USUALLY HEATER CONTROL VALVE IS THE PROBLEM, SO ENGINE CANT BE BLED WELL AND THEREFORE YOU GET AIR POCKETS AND TRANSMISSION HEAT EXCHANGER CONNECTED TO THE ENGINE RADIATOR.
ALSO YOU SHOULD FLUSH THE HEAT EXHANGER, OLD DEBRIS CAN CLOG IT AND TRANNY WILL OVERHETA.
I had a problem with my 2009 bmw 328ix transmission when it suddenly would not go into reverse. I made the mistake of taking it to a local AAMCO since the nearest BMW shop is 100 miles away. They told me I needed a valve body rebuild. They pulled the valve body, installed new manual valve assembly, sonnax zip kit, new filter, pan gasket and used dextron 6 fluid. The car drove rough between 1st and second with clunking and also when coming down hill to decellerate, it would jerk shifting down. The mechanics said the car would have to “relearn” my driving and it would eventually adapt. Now I am reading about the computer needing programing after this type of repair. I told the mechanic I was not satisfied with the way my car is shifting and he said he was aware of a relearning but needed to study up on it. Is there a software he can use that will fix this, or is it only available at a BMW shop?
YES YOU NEED TO RESET ADAPTATIONS AFTER ANY REPAIR ON THE TRANNY. INPA OR ISTA CAN DO IT
I have a 05 bmw 545i second to first speed York,have a rebuild valve body,new bushings inside tranny and new software still the York,only don’t York 30miles after the realearn the York is back again..what can be ..the tcm ?let me know tanks..
DID YOU CHECK ADAPTATIONS AFTER REBUILT?
I have a 2011 335d which I have had dyno tuned with an increase of 120hp 160lbs of tq to the wheels. The tranny is now the weak point of the car. You can really feel how slow the shifts are and how slow the TC locks up. This info is stored in the TCU not the ECU correct? What can be done to modify the TCU for quicker shifts and fast TC lockups etc? I’m very knowledgeable with all of the tools and software needed just not on the diesel version of this car. Any help is greatly appreciated!
I have a 2011 335d which I have had dyno tuned with an increase of 120hp 160lbs of tq to the wheels. The tranny is now the weak point of the car. You can really feel how slow the shifts are and how slow the TC locks up. This info is stored in the TCU not the ECU correct? What can be done to modify the TCU for quicker shifts and fast TC lockups etc? I’m very knowledgeable with all of the tools and software needed just not on the diesel version of this car. Any help is greatly appreciated!
YES YOU NEED TO REFLASH TRANSMISSION ECU
bmw e70 6hp26 when starting the engine sometimes a hit and automatic error position valve jammed writes . a common problem in such automatic transmissions especially after the renovation there that can actually be ?
YES ITS COMMON, YOU NEED TO REBUILD YOUR VLAVE BODY OR MECHATRONIC UNIT
Hi.
Firstly i wanted to say great write up, very resourceful information.
I have a problem with my 2009 335d zf gearbox, vehicle has been remapped about 370bhp/730nm of torque. In normal D mode the gearbox is perfectly fine, in DS and MANUAL mode on full throttle changing gears from No. 4 – 5 just before reaching or after even 4000 rpm, the gear judders or slips, po, i drive will show transmission fault, visit work shop, power and gear ratio is limited 2500rpm. When restarting engine the fault goes away, drives perfectly normal, this has happend a couple of times now, when driving 300 or 400 miles, while car is hot.. Thanks
YOU NEED TO DIAGNOSE AND READ ERROR CODES, BUT SOUNDS LIKE VALVE BODY PROBLEM.
Hello cj from Australia
Firstly congrats on a great Blog and thank you on behalf of all for continuously helping us out .
I have just purchased a 2004 e60 530i
Done 70k kms
Trans – Automatic
Was serviced by BMW till 40k kms and then local mechanic after
Problem
The car when accelerated mostly uphill and even more so when it has more ppl sitting , the car when shifting from 4 to 5 . The engine revs out like there was a neutral gear in between and then engages into 5th gear . A minute later the auto trans error comes up . It doesn’t happen all the time .
The mechanic scanned and found 4F51 5 gear monitoring .
I don’t think the car transmission was ever serviced. What is your diagnosis and what are the list of things you suggest I do considering the car may have never had a transmission service .
Where can I get parts in Melbourne and any mechanics you re commend ?
no sure about melbourne, but try valve body rebuilt or at least replace solenoids in there along with square mechatronic gasket. just folllow the article, its all the same for these transmissions.
Changing solenoids wont help. I have the same issue, had already replaced solenoids, gaskets, seals, valve body separator plate… Still the same.. Probably one of pressure regulators has worn out..
PRESSURE REGULATOR=SOLENOID IN THIS TRANNY, DID YOU RESET ADAPTATIONS AFTER YOU REPLACED EVERYTHING?
OF OCURSE IF YOU DID IT LATE, IT MIGHT HAVE AFFECTED ACTUAL CLUTCHES AND BUSHINGS
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Hi I got a bmw 750 li 2006 and is shifting hard from 3rd gear to 4th gear and slip and I’m having a code solenoid 3 interlock , also some times shift hard 1 to 2nd gear. Any idea what could be the issue please I’m kind desperate with this issue. Thanks
YOU NEED TO REPLACE AT LEAST ALL SOLENOIDS SINCE YOU CANT TEST THEM YOURSELF. SOLENOIDS DO GO BAD VERY OFTEN
Hi I got a bmw 750 li 2006 and is shifting hard from 3rd gear to 4th gear and slip and I’m having a code solenoid 3 interlock , also some times shift hard 1 to 2nd gear. Any idea what could be the issue please I’m kind desperate with this issue. Thanks….
ANY IDEA? IT TELLS YOU HAVE SOLENOID PROBLEM RIGHT THERE. REPLACE THEM AND IT SHOULD BE ALL RIGHT
hi i have a bmw 530 d paddle shift 2007
between 3rd and 4th gear when selecting 4th one it engages gear the revs drop as it just drops in gear no clutch.
iv also noticed on the same 3rd to 4th most of the time the gear will go in to 4th around 18-1900 rpm and driving same style it will change about 2400rpm and this is only between 3rd to 4th all other gears are ok. the oil and sump was replaced by bmw in 2012 t about 60k the car now has 80k.
would a software update sort this out ?
the problem only started after gong sideways around a round about for a bit ;-(
is this normal gearbox behavier ? or am i being parannoyed
any advice would be great thanks
NO ITS NOT, YOU NEED TO SERVICE YOUR VALVE BODY
2004 530i Code 4F8C. error goes away and drives fine after restart. Not stuck and won’t shift out of seconde gear. Any suugestions ?
standard mechatroincs issues. get it rebuilt or at least replace solenoids
2004 530i Code 4F8C stuck in second gear. Dealer says new tranny. Your thoughts?
get valve body rebuilt before rebuilding entire tranny. it might fix the issues
Hi, I have a 04 525i M/Sport.
Mechanics i have taken this to have not been able to specificlly tell what the problem is.
I have 2 fault codes that appear after scanning.
5088 Selector Swich L1-L4
5089 They dont know
When driving at low speed and i take my foot off the thottle, or stationary at traffic lights, The transmission will drop out of drive. The ” D ” in the dash cluster will disappear and is blank though all other symbols on the dash are fine.
I have all other operations P R N and they work fine.
It has sometimes come back on its own, or the failsafe will engage. After restarting, failsafe is cleared and car operates as normal. It might be the next day or 2 before it happens again.
If i keep revs slightly up when staionary or using any throttle while driving , it wont drop out
I would greatly appreciate any thoughts you had on this.
Thank You
Jason
sounds like gear selector switch could be faulty
Hi there,
Thanks for sharing all this information with us. Extremely helpful. I too have an issue with my tranny, car is e65 730d, ZF 6hp26.
Its tuned to approx 350hp and 800nm.
Car goes into failsafe when hard accelerating and changing from 5th to 6th and only happens around 160-170 km/h. Or when hard accelerating and shifting from 6th to 5th at around the same speed. Would it be because of high torque? Oil was changed approx 5000km ago.
Trouble codes:
5140
4F4C
4F51
Any help is appreciated
Regards
it could be valve body problem, you need to check adaptation values first, but in 99% cases valve body causes lots of different isuues
Hi, couldn’t find where to register myself to post but hope you see this, I have BMW 545i 2004 Automatic and have fault messages appearing relating to “Transmission Fault, Possible reduction in acceleration, Have the problem checked by nearest BMW dealer” Also in traffic at around 35-40mph the gears jerk back and forth as if it cant make its mind up which gear and lastly when accelerating with pedal hard down gears change up to 3rd the hold for approx. 1.5 secs then an almighty thump and gears carry on changing ! Had valve body and mechatronics replaced, still got these faults, A ZF technician told me could be DRUM BUSH ! Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
please read the article, it explains your problem. i cannot keep typing the same thing over and over. you need to start from valve body rebuilt, if done in time you can save your tranny drums, driving like this will finally kill the tranny and you will need full rebuilt or new tranny.
can you please advise if solenoids can breakdown under heat.
i have done a resistance test and all test OK.
Is it possible that solenoids could still be faulty ?
Thankyou
resistance test only tests if coil is broken, it won;t test actual pressure regulation properties of this prssure regulator solenoid. its not the old school solenoid type where you just test for resistance.
2006 Range Rover Sport ….transmission shifted ok other than the occasional 2-1 blip ….adaptive strategy was errased for transmission and now it cant be driven in D mode. 1-2 shift bangs hard 2-3 the same and will not hit 4th , tries but reverts back to third. Manual mode works for all gears except 3-4 , sometimes it will shift up ok and others it tries but then as in D reverts back to 3rd.
Dealer says software is ok and recomends trans replacement . Not sure why adaptive strategy errase would cause all these issues …also slight delay into engaging reverse when selected ….thoughts ?
resetting adaptaitons when valve body isnt in good shape will cause failsafe transmission mode.read carefully my article and you’ll find that mechatronics module is the most important on this transmission. you need valve body rebuilt or at least new solenoid pack
Should I replace the mechatrinic unit as well or do you think I can get away with changing iut the solenoid pack on its own ?
Thanks
YES, TRY SOLENOID PACK FIRST. YOU DON’T NEED TO REPLACE ENTIRE UNIT. MECHATRONIC INCLUDES ECM+VALVE BODY. VALVE BODY GOES BAD, BUT NOT ECM USUALLY
F02 – Transmission error reading P0716 – Turbine/Input Shaft Speed Sensor Circuit Range.
Symptoms : error when cold starting the car, gear shifting is jerky. Once the car goes beyond 10mph the error vanishes, restart the car and it drives normally. Else it will drive only in 3rd gear (i presume).
Workshop says, speed sensor is linked to a computer which will also need replacement. $2000 – $3000. Reused parts cant be reprogrammed.
Any suggestion will be helpful.
WELL IT DOES SOUND LIKE A MECHATRONIC UNIT PROBLEM, BECAUSE SPEED SENSOR IS LOCATED ON THE ECM
Hello, I found this website by searching om Zf 6hp 19. Very nice to have all this information. I drive a BMW 530i 2005, 200.000 km. I bought this car 5 years ago. At 140.000 I saw some oil leak on the tranny. I went to Germany (live in Holland) to ZF, the changed the seal and changed also the oil.
At 150.000 km from 5 to 6 not so smooth. I went to ZF service in the Netherlands, They reset the adaptive values. Since then the overall shifst are not very smooth anymore. Not a real issue but. Zf Netherlands told me that this was acceptable. The offered a complete revision of the tranny. No deal. At 170.000 km I went to a tranny workplace nearby, they replaced the solenoids. It improved a little but I am still not satisfied. They told me, the shifting is acceptable for a car with this kilometers. Now at 200.000 km the shifting became a bit less smoother, When I drive with a caravan it works fine. Another issue came up since a few months. After slowing down from 80 km/h to 30 km/h, it takes some seconds to pick up the Tranny, or engine. Like is hesitate to chose the right gear. In manual mode no hesitation. So I think the tranny is causing it. No fault codes are present.
your solenoids are bad, if you replace them and reset adaptations, it might fix it
My car is 2004 BMW 530i with 268000 KM on it. I got the following message today.
“Transmission fault …Transmission failsafe activated. Possible reduction is acceleration/ drive moderately! Have the problem checked by the nearest BMW service”
and this is the detected code : 5088 sensors, transmission switch L1-L4
during receiving the message I did feel that the gear shifting were slightly hard. After seeing the message I powered down the car for 5 minutes and restarted it. The message did not come again and gear shifting was smooth as normal.
This message appear two time or three per week.
Please note that I’ve not replaced the transmission filter or oil
Any suggestion will be helpful.
try new valve body along with oil and filter
166k miles 2006 BMW 530xit, originally had a harsh 2-1 shift, changed trans oil and filter and reset adaptations. Now i have transmission faults and the 4-5 shift slips and triggers the light under spirited driving. After reading this website And the reviews, i am pretty confident mechatronic seals are needed. Should i need the entire assembly rebuilt or just seals?? I am thinking it can handle the new, thinner fluid
NO, YOUR VALVE BODY WAS ON THE LAST LEG, AFTER RESET IT CANNOT ADAPT WITH HIGHER PRESSURE VALUES YOU RESET.
REBUILD VALVE BOSY OR AT LEAST INSTALL NEW SOLENOIDS
Hi,
I have an x5m e70 2012, 110 kkm on the clock. Recently im hearing loud whining noise from the tranny! Coukd it be the TC? Shifting from 1-2 or 2-1 was a bit harsh, after adaptation reset it went fine, but the whining noise is still there. Any clue what could this be?
yes whining noise indicates TC wear&tear. You can rebuild it for 300-500$. I would recommend valve body rebuilt as wel
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NOT THAT SIMPLE:
apart from solenoids there is a valve body with pistons and other things. You can only tell if tranny is doing okay only by checking adaptations values.
in lots of cases solenoids can save the day, but not always. you also need to rest adaptations after this
Hi!
My 530da 2007 (lci) with ga6hp26z gearbox feels strange sometimes.
Like when i stop in a intersection and start again it feels like it is slipping a bit ( in 1 gear), like high rpm and little power. suddenly it`s working again. From slipping to normal seems kind of hard.
Range on my car is 196 000km, no proof of oilchange ever. Gearshift feels fine and no faults
I am afraid it is cluch problems.
What do you think?
Is it the same square mechatronic gasket in all this gearboxes?
yes you can start from that gasket. don’t forget to reset adaptatioons, but most likely this is a valve body failure
Hello from Seville/Spain, just found the link to publish my question.
thank You for sharing Your knowledge in the Web. I am preparing my Jaguar XKE with aV12 engine to perform as a daily driver.
One of my thoughts was to change the old BW12-automatic to a modern automatic transmission with Overdrive.
As i know the 6HP26/28`s have an integrated ECU programmed to the specific features of the coupled engine.
I would like to know what kind of sensor connections needs the 6HP from the engine (f.E. throttle position sensor or kickdown switch).
I am aware, that there is no possibility to connect to an ODB-system, because in 1971 that does not exist.
My ides was to search for a transmission from a Jaguar XK8 due to the similar engine characeristic.
Any opinion on this?
Best regards from Seville
Helge Kassel
best option to install bmw engine with tranny and harness, or you will run into lots of issues with this tranny setup. it needs can network to communicate with the engine.
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My 2013 activehybrid 3 won’t shift into park. I went for a 600kms fun run with a few friends with alot of spirited driving and half way through when we stopped for a break I noticed the car won’t shift in Park and if I shut it down and try to lock the car I can’t. Runs perfectly o reverse and all other gears. Just won’t go into park. The N symbol blinks and the car goes into N.
you need to read codes first, obviously something is worng with EGS or mechatronic module.
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Transmission failure fault. 2005 545i had transmission replaced almost 4 years ago. Getting fault more often in past few months. After driving for a while then returning to car and reversing fault appears can hear gears shifting loudly in parked position. Like gears are loose sound very bad. After about 20 mins of vehicle turned off car returns to running smooth again no loud gears shifts normal. Need help thanks
all help already written in this artcile. valve body/solenoids
Hi i just changed, my Mechatronics, fluid, and filter and all sleeves and gaskets on my 08 135i, the ussue I’m having is it dies not seem to hold a constant rev after say 4th but it’s more noticeable in 6th Gear ilany ideas on what thus could be? Bad torque converter? I asl so get a bit of a Sutter when putting my foot down.
MOST LIKELY TC
Hey buddy, i have 2010 Bmw 750li xdrive will fault code 400641 “parking gear incorrectly engaged”. Can you shed a little light on what you think this may be. My car stay in park and will not engage any gear and is stuck in 4th gear failsafe mode. ISTA tells me to replace mechatroics unit. i was thinking about replacing solenoids but to be honest i think i should just replace the entire valve body and reuse my tcm? what are your thought, anything will help, thanks buddy!!
WELL IT COULD BE TCM AS WELL ACTUALLY
2007 Z4 3.0si with Steptronic, 96k miles.
When driving around town, driving seems normal. When transmission is warm, seems to get slight surge when coming to stop, like from torque converter.
Main problem, when downshifting under load, like getting onto on-ramp, or going to pass, get following error.
4F8A Ratio Monitoring, gearshift 4-5.
TC OR VALVE BODY SOLENOIDS
Hallo. From the Netherlands
Very good info here. Thanks for helping out everyone
I have This problem.
Second gear spins about 1000-3000 rpm until he lock up and go .1 gear is good pick up when you drive away. But the problem
Starts when I shift up 1-2–3-4-5. And go back to the stop lights and the gearbox is shifting back to second gear. And then accelerate again the second gear spins.
Second problem when I go on the highway and shift up 2-3-4 and then from 4 to 5 he go in neutral and right back to 4 gear and then direct to 5 gear when i hold the gas on the same position same when I do it manually.
1: change gaskets between valve body and gearbox 4 round pipes and 1 square gasket.
2: I change oil all off it, new filter
Reset the adaptation value
3: drove it nothing change.
4: Valve body off change gasket between the two plates
Zip kit instal .cleaned everything test solenoid
4x 11.5 ohm. black one park 1x 30 ohm 1x 11.7ohm . ( the zip kit manual saying 4x 5.05ohm and 2x 11.5ohm ( very nices set I think… please tell me I am wrong )
5: Change oil again
6: reset adaptation value again.
7: nothing changes??????????????
Here are the adaptations values.
Clutch press
Clutch A -4.0 mbar
Clutch B -124mbar
Clutch C -233mbar
Clutch D 59mbar
Clutch E 270mbar
Quick refil press
Clutch A 42,0ms
Clutch B 9,0ms
Clutch C -6,0ms
Clutch D 0,0ms
Clutch E 56,0ms
Please can you tell me what’s wrong
Kind regards
René
solenoids were replaced?
2009 320d xdrive 128k miles
never had an oilchange.
shifts perfectly but some times when it´s go from first to second gear with little gas and downhill it shift hard.
should i change the oil and filterpan or am i begging for problems?
should i put it in neutral when i get a redlight?
no neutral on red lights.
oil change wont help
2003 Jaguar XK8 – Hard shift from 2nd to 1st – if I am coming to almost stop and then give it gas. If I let the car come to complete halt, no hard shift or if I don’t let it shift by gentle gas from almost dead stop.
valve body solenoids
I bought the x5 with 100,00km on it. it went into limp mode almost right off the lot and they put a used tranny in to fix a problem with clutch e, resused the valve body and it seemed to fix everything.
I changed the fluid at 140000km. Now for the past 30,000km ive had an issue with the revs flaring up between 3/4 and 4/5 when the tranny gets above 85c.
It hasen’t got worse. I drive in sport mode and I don’t notice the flare up. Only in drive mode usually. It also pops out of reverse when over 85c as if its slipping into neutral. No CEL no limp mode, no codes for whats happening. I just had a mechatronics kit intstalled and i was going to do the solenoids but the mechanic said those basically never fail. installing the mech kit didnt change a thing with how the transmission behaves. It still flares up between 3/4 and 4/5 and slip’s out of reverse. I took it to a transmission shop and they said I’d have to rebuilt the entire tranny. They’ve never seen it pop of of reverse under load like mine. On flat surfaces it’s okay but on hills it can pop almost every time. Thoughts?
they fail all the time, find another tech
Hi,
I have BMW E60 (5 Series) with ZF6HP19 tranny. When I undid the fill plug to top up the oil – I released about 1.5l of excess oil! Do you have any idea what could have caused this?
Many thanks,
Jonathan
when running??? if you released that oil when standing-PUT IT BACK ASAP when running!!! read about fluid level check
Hello,
I need to replace ZF6HP26 TCM & Valve Body in 2009 Jaguar XF 4.2 V8.
Can ZF6HP26 BMW replacement be programmed to suit the Jaguar?
i dont think so, ecu programmed for jaguar
Thank you for all your insight – I have a 6HP28X and my clutch B fill pressure is -406mbar. It had a recent service and before that clutch B was also pretty high but I can’t recall the number. The bridge and clutch seals were replaced. It’s been a couple thousand miles since the service. Here are my current numbers:
A fill -8
B fill -406
C fill -51
D fill +196
E fill -52
Rapid A +8ms
Rapid B -18ms
Rapid C -5ms
Rapid D 0ms
Rapid E +34ms
I would appreciate any feedback you can muster based on this information.
its ok condition numbers, clutch D is a little high but nothing serious yet.
Hello,
2011 bmw 335i x drive
when rebuilding the Mechatronic, do you have to do the transmission adaptation (with ISTA-d) before or after the rebuild?
Thank you
yes always
I have 2009 bmw 535i xdrive
The transmission is popping into neutral while driving. It’s at the dealership and it’s not showing any codes. They can repeat the issue but just can’t get it throw any codes.
I have a custom tune setup using COBBS, would that possibly cause a problem with the transmission?
Any help would be much appreciated.
Thanks.
solenoids
I have a 2006 RR HSE with 6HP26 . At 75k miles, trans had the roll out thump due to trans not downshifting to 1st before stopping. Then a solenoid failed and replaced valve body and solenoids with Sonnax unit. Worked perfectly with no roll out thump for 6 months then it came back. Tried resetting adaptations with GAP IID programmer and running factory driving procedure but never got rid of roll out thump. In order to make it live to 110K miles so far, I just come to a complete stop and make sure trans shifts down to 1st before accelerating again. Now it has developed a shutter from the torque converter at low speeds under moderate loads. Is there any device that can allow customer or independent shop to make software changes? BOTH of these issues could be permanently and easily fixed if we had access to the programming.
your TC is on the way…. clutch burned
So, is there any way to modify the software to keep this from happening again? No other vehicle I have ever owned started trying to lock the converter in 2nd gear and definitely not under any load, that’s just stupid.
My 2009 BMW 520d Lci transmission works perfectly, except for when im cruising, my rev counter goes up and down and the car begins to shudder. Could the (square) seal between the mechatronic unit and the transmission have something to do with this?
TC clutch worn out
Thank you for your help,
2006 Jaguar xj 6hp26 trans, just replaced bridge and connector seal and replaced fluid with Ford Mercon SP. It solved the ‘clunky hard shift but lately sometimes, when I start the car, it won’t shift into reverse or drive unless I turn off ignition and turn it on. What do you think? I was even wondering if the shift cable needed adjustment.
not sure, not a magician. read errors first, solenoids kit is must plus reset
I have a 6HP28 in a 335d and my upshifts seem sluggish. Lower gears mostly, hot or cold. No flaring, just seems to delay for a split second. I’ve been in two other cars that shift much crisper so I know it isn’t my imagination. Fluid/filter changed at 125k miles. Replaced fluid/filter, seals, solenoids, vb zip kit at 160k miles. This fixed a 3-4 gear flare, but shifting still not crisp. Currently at 166k miles. Never seen trans temp over 90. Reset my adaptations using my Foxwell scanner and did ZF procedure after. My current values:
A fill -4
B fill -237
C fill -326
D fill 56
E fill 100
Rapid A 24
Rapid B 8
Rapid C -17
Rapid D 0
Rapid E 36
Any thoughts?
Thank you
pretty good numbers
I have the following nubers:
A :390
B: 252
C: 214
D: -142
E: 730
Rapid fil:
A: 31
B: 0
C: 2
D: 0
E: 96
How bad it is and what should be done to rectify.
clutch E is very bad o the last leg. try new solenoid pack plus reset, if no luck you need bushings replaced inside tranny
Question on two issues with 6HP28X in 2011 BMW X5M. I occaisionally get “skip shifts” in manual mode when shifting from 1-2 and 2-3 the tranny almost immediately shifts to the next gear. No issues in “D” mode.
2nd concern is a 3 second lag for reverse to engage when shifting from park. Trans has a 135K miles and a rebuilt valve body from Revmax.
Thanks!
6hp i guess, ty solenoid pack with reset and oil change with square seal
Hi I have a 6hp22 in my 2004 X5, slipped in reverse under a heavy load, sent for service found “bronze” in pan suggested re-build needed. Still drives fine. Is that gearbox or valve body needs re-build or both do you think? Thanks.
start from solenoids and seals with adaptation reset
Hi There. I recently bought a 2005 BMW E63 645ci with only 70,000 miles on it. I have problems that I would really appreciate you advise on: 1 reverse is slow to engage but drive engages fine, 2 today under 3/4 throttle in drive at approx 80mph the gearbox seemed to momentarily come out of gear and the go back into gear with a large thump. It has done this 3 times but i cannot get it to do it in sport or manual programs, only in drive.
I have purchased a service kit from zf (oil, filter, square gasket, 4 rubber sleeves and connector sleeve) but am wondering if service and adaption reset are likely to resolve my issues?
Many thanks in advance for your thoughts.
reset adaptations only recommended with new solenoids
Hi there, thanks for the great write up. Good information consolidated in one spot! I gave a 2008 BMW Alpina B7, just finished rebuilding the engine and transmission as was at 100k miles and don’t want to have to mess with it for a while. Went very slow and replaced everything. The transmission didn’t have any problems before but the seals inside were definitely old, some bushing wear and clutches and steels. I replaced everything and rebuilt the valve body and new solenoids. Just finished up and decided to go for a little ride even though haven’t reset adaptations yet (it’s Sunday). It drive and shifts great except for 3-2 downshift. It bangs when downshifting. I even started it up on jack stands and at idle when shifting manually from 3-2 the wheels momentarily stop. I’m not sure that an adaptation reset is going to fix it. Any ideas?
did you do the reset adaptations? if you did everything right and reset it it should be good
I the write up you reference that rebuild it yourself with NEW SOLENOIDS PACK (300-400$) and SONNAX zip kit (150$). Is there anything else that needs to be done for it to be considered rebuilt? I’m considering to do it myself if I can, but if there is more …
try solenoids first.
Thanks so much for this. I am doing ZF6HP26 valve body rebuild and need to determine if it is gen 1 053 separator plate or gen 2 as the 4 sleeves are supposedly different. Vehicle is ’04 Jaguar XJR.
Thanks in advance.
check zip kit specs. usually solenoids go bad first
Hi again,
I rebuilt valve body, new solenoids, Mechatronic adapter seal, plug seal. I also replaced 053 plate as there portions of silicone ‘gasket’ that stuck to other half. The pressure regulator valve pistons came with 2 o-rings versus 1 groove on old. I verified I ordered correct Zip kit for 053 and figured this must be an update. I assume the pipe seals are the ones that are in the Trans body and VB hits on install. The o es in Zip kit were different and would not work so after looking at old ones they were not flush with Trans body so I reused. No accumulator pistons came with kit so I reused. All were flat pretty much with valve body.
END part1
PART 2
Pipe seals I belive are the 4 tubes of 3 differing lengths that seal VB to trans body. Zip kit had different ones, old were not flattened out so I reused. I did not measure any diameters of actual valves assuming they would be fine.
I have shudder between 3&4 and in 6th when under little to no load along with very small rpm range in 3rd to 4th gear shift under easy to moderate throttle position.
Vehicle is 2004 Jag XJR with 160k on it.
Any of the items mentioned possible culprits or is it torque converter?
Thanks
sounds like TC or clutch E burnt
Hey, 2010 Range Rover 5L supercharged V8 90k miles. The transmission shifts fine in Drive and Sport when hot and cold. The transmission makes a whining noise when the car gets up to temp. Torque converter im assuming? Changed fluid and filter twice, mechatronics sleeve, square gasket, also put in a new transmission cooler. If its the tc, where would you recommend i buy a new one? Thanks.
not easy to guess hetre. scan it first, could be TC if at 60-70mph you see needle fluctiontions
Have a 2006 bmw 5 series. Car does not move in drive or reverse. Had transmission rebuilt but still same thing. Using ista d there are no fault codes at all in egs. After rebuild had car on jack stands started in up and cycle through gears. Rear wheels started to turn then stop. Now the abs light is on. Any ideas would be appreciated.
mechatronics issue most likely, not easy to guess here, sorry
Hello, I have a question for you, hopefully you can help point me in the right direction. Transmission stopped going into reverse and drive when warm. When cold it would shift. I dropped the pan and the mechatronics unit, replaced the 4 sealing sleeves and found the bridge seal was cracked all way through in 3 different places, replaced it also. Decided to also replace all of the solenoids with new ones from ZF. Added new transmission oil 7qts. Topped off while warmed. Reset the transmission adaptions. Now the car won’t shift from park at all. Doesn’t even try to shift out. Everything looks clean and new in the transmission. Just won’t shift at all. It was driving fine, no rough shifting or slipping.
you sure you installed correct solenoid pack? should shift
when square gasket cracks it usually kills tranny internals very quick due to low oil pressure.
cant be, may be TC is bad. it should work if all was done properly
Hi,
Firstly I’d like to thank you and compliment you on your article and your sustained replying to everyone’s questions.
I have recently purchased a 2006 E66 750Li, in immaculate condition with a genuine 50,000miles on it.
I has a single gear-shift problem, that doesn’t appear in your general descriptions.
When the gearbox is cold, the problem is more noticeable, but occasionally, it may present again, though far more subtly, when the gearbox is warm.
At approximately 50mph, when shifting from 5th to 6th (I think), or it could be 4th to 5th, it does a single harsh change. The more gently I’m accelerating, the more harsh it feels. It generally only does it once per trip. And if the transmission is still warm, often only once per day. After which, the gear box seems to work silky-smooth.
I’ve reset the adaptations, but the problem persists. I’m about to change the oil/filter/sleeves/square seal, because I should. But I’m a little hesitant about refurbishing the valve body with a zip kit and new solenoids because I don’t want to do unnecessary work, nor incur any unnecessary cost. Oil and sleeves etc will cost <£200. Zip-Kit and solenoids will put an addition £500 on the cost.
Whilst I appreciate that the best solution is to refurbish it all, I rather not spend an additional £500 if it's not entirely necessary at this point.
Your thoughts and advice on this matter would be greatly appreciated.
Kind regards
Antony
solenoinds are usually the main culprit of the problem you can skip zipkit
2011 Range Rover Sport TDV6 3.0 with 6HP28. 182,000km on it, no major issues, no faults. Every now and then it feels like it down shifts a little late/at low RPMs and upshifts aren’t always smooth. No clunking or weird noises, typically shifts fine, just these odd shifts every now and then. I’d rather get ahead of an issue than wait and end up with a full rebuild.
try new oil and filter with new square seal, but new solenoid pack is preffered
Hello I just purchased 2012 750 had hit a rock in the road and leaked out all trans fluid.car was then towed to my shop,where I install new pan and fluid. The issue Is the car will not move in drive or reverse and won’t go into p at all. When I press p it flashes in netrual .400532 is the only code in transmission and I did a reset after I seen this issue. I’m lost
if you drove without fluid mosyt likely clutches are dead….
I have a 2009 Maserati Quattroporte S with ZF 6HP26. My issues are as follows,
Cold from 25-30 mph, very little surging in rpms. You can see needle moving from about 1450-1500rpms roughly for about 1 minute. Then goes away. Only under light throttle. While very cold.
Moderate to hard throttle from 4th to 5th, will slip sometimes. Sometimes it will skip 5th and go back to 4th, So I shift it like a manual car, let off the gas, then shift and no issues at all.
Hard throttle in 5th gear will sometimes shift into 6th.
I have stopped driving the car since I noticed the issues.
I assume, Solenoids? Maybe Valve body? I assume torque converter for the 1 minute surging while cold?
I apologize if you have answered this before. I read every post and while some sound like mine, mine seems different than most.
Thanks for your time.
just follow the article. solenoids, new oil filter, square seals, RESET ADAPTATIONS!
if no luck its more serious clutch wear, bushings. you will still need new solenoids every 70-100k even if clutches went out
could be TC, could be solenoids and valve body. usually valve body goes bad killing all other clutches later, like clutch E
This article is excellent! Thanks for the time. My issue- 2008 BMW535xi. 170k, Trans running fine but decided to carefully do the pan, fluid, bridge seal, 4 sleeves, and ALL NEW E-type solenoids including park, connector plug and sleeve. All ZF parts, and ZF fluid. Followed all filling procedures carefully at temp. Reset adaptations. Drove perfect, shifting smoothly on up/down shift. Better than before, crisper in all gears, sport, and manual, auto.
Problem- Car sits overnight, then won’t start. seems to lose communication. Software won’t see transmission. (I use pro tool, and INPA).
Code: GWS(GWS_60) E094 “No Message(display transmission data)from the electronic transmission control, receiver gear selector switch, transmitter electronic transmission control.Sequential Manual Gearbox SMG/twin-clutch gearbox”
and
Codes: CF2F”message (LIN) from GWS
No lights on gear lever. Seems it “may” have to do with the parking safety cable, although I was careful to put that back correctly, and in the groove on parking piston which interfaces with Mechatronix unit.
When I manually move it, seems to release something, then car will start and drive fine. But the issue is intermittent? The CF2F code remains, even after clearing or driving. The E094 code seems to be the one that disappears when the car finally starts (that code appears to be the communication from trans to ECU/DME. When it communicates, gear shift lever lights come on, the car drives totally normal.
Any Ideas or pointers where I should be focusing? Thanks SO MUCH!
you damaged tcm module somehow, or it just died
Hi, i have 2010 tuned 335d with 6hp28, the only issue is when fully warmed up and under moderate/heavy acceleration and manually short shifting (2-3.5k rpm) from 4 to 5 it got “disconnect” feeling and keep on going in 4th sometimes it disconnect and slams into 5 hard…
Also on hot takes lil longer to engage from D to R (Reverse to actually “LOAD” the engine)
What do you think the issue is?
start with valve body and solenoids, but could be more seriious