Everything about your ZF 6HP26, 6HP19, 6HP28 transmission issues

What you are supposed to know about your ZF6HP26, 6HP19, 6HP28 and similar ford Transmissions.

6hp26Z_main

It applies to all BMW, Jaguar, Bentley, Rolls Royce, Maserati, Audi and others with ZF 6HP26, 6HP19, 6HP28

In this post i will be explaining why you have transmission issues like:

-harsh shift 2-1

-not able to shift into park when hot

-weak torque feeling

-gear speed ratio faults

-other faults

All highlighted problems you can experience even on low miles cars less than 70-80k, it depends on at what speeds your car mostly runs. On the highway this tranny will easily last 200-300kmls. AND EVERYTHING IS RELATED TO VALVE BODY PRESSURE LOSS DUE TO SOLENOIDS OR ACTUAL VALVE BODY SEALING GASKETS LEAKING INSIDE, BUT BETTER DO BOTH. DRIVING WITH LEAKING VALVE BODY WILL EVENTUALLY WEAR OUT ACTUAL TRANSMISSION HARDWARE.
 BEST ADVICE FOR YOU: SINCE 99% issues with this trannies are related to valve body fluid pressure loss, I strongly recommend new (re manufactured) valve body from ZF (expensive 1600$), (you can find some companies offer this rebuild, but they charge almost new VB price, or rebuild it yourself with NEW SOLENOIDS PACK (300-400$) and  SONNAX zip kit (150$). If after you rebuilt or replaced valve body and RESET ADAPTATIONS USING BMW SOFTWARE INPA OR ISTA IS A MUST, OR YOU WON’T SEE ANY DIFFERENCE AFTER REBUILT, BECAUSE TCM KNOWS VALVE BODY PRESSURE VALUES AND THEY MUST BE RESET. IF AFTER REBUILT, it’s not shifting well, it means YOU WAITED TOO LONG WITH VALVE BODY REBUILT AND DESTROYED transmission hardware (bushings or actual clutches failed) and you need to rebuild it, but like i said main problem STARTS at valve body and then if not fixed in time you get worn out transmission. All those jolts, bumps or harsh shifts cause premature wear and tear on your tranny. Rule of the thumb is not to drive it if it jerks,or shifts wrong.

replacing just solenoids without rebuilding valve body, where accumulators/pistons always go bad after 60-70k, will not get you perfect results, but might improve shifting quality. Remember-cheap people usually pay twice (no offense).

So you hate the way tranny shifts and dealer and other shops didn’t find any faults and told youit is what it is and this is how it is intended to work! Well it is total lie they are trying to get rid of you with.

In fact ZF 6HP26 6hp19, 6hp28 is a very good transmission, powerful, bullet proof pretty much if serviced in time and proper fluid pressure maintained! This tranny is still considered one of the best and has carbon clutches vs cheap paper ones you can find on Japanese cars. But this tranny has very serious and very

important weak spots you have to take care of:

-First thing first check tranny temperatures. If it is higher than 95C, then most likely you have a problem with tranny cooling system or your engine cooling has some leaks causing running it very hot.

6hp26_temps

Usually high temps indicate following:



1) engine cooling system problem- air bauble or airlock

2) if everything is good with cooling system, check your tranny oil cooler- it gets clogged up pretty often and also indicates that some clutches or TC clutch is worn out and that debris clogged oil cooler.

3) worn out TC clutch slipping overheating transmission fluid.

Your good engine temps are 103-105C and if it climbs to 107-110C in traffic, it means you’ve got a leak :

-lower radiator hose sensor leaking (usually shows a white residue around the sensor)

-valley pan under intake

-rear cover plate between tranny and engine. Very common after 100k or 8-10yrs.

-coolant tank cracked

-radiator cap leaking pressure

-coolant pipe seal leaking

-other cooling issues

It is very important to keep temps in specs not only because of few degrees, but because with leaking

cooling system you lose coolant pressure introducing air in the system, causing uneven cooling and overheating both engine and tranny. Good OEM specs are 103-105 cycle when idling and lower hose should be hot around 60-80C. When you drive it tstat is controlled by ECU therefore it keeps it cool on the freeway.

Easy way to test your cooling system

1) Disconnect aux pump connector assuming aux pump is working (they fail often)

2) Drive your car to warm engine well

      1. Turn on heater on hot but low speed
      2. check if you get hot air from vents for 10 minutes.
      3. If after a minute you noticed your heater is not hot anymore, it means you’ve got a leak!
      4. This Engine has self bleeding cooling system, which means you cannot get air pocket if system is well sealed.

So if engine temps are good and tranny still runs hot 100-110, it means heat exchanger is clogged with tranny clutches, TC wear and tear dirt. Replace it and check if it got better. This tranny will die quick if temps are not good.

MECHATRONIC ADAPTER SEAL.

mech_adapyter

This adapter (number 2) usually lasts only 60-70kmls (BMW lifetime). Replace it every 60kmls even if tranny shifts well. It is very important because it keeps your mechatronic valve body under specified pressure therefore it controls how clutches are pressed! Which means if your gasket is weak your tranny clutches are not pressing well on each other causing premature wear and tear, also tranny pump and TC clutch will be affected. This square seal also can CRACK, in this case you will get tranny fail safe errors and even clutches slipping ERRORS, causing very quick TRANNY DEATH. DON’T DRIVE YOUR CAR IF YOU’RE GETTING ANY TRANNY FAULTS, EVEN AFTER RESTART TRANNY ERRORS GO AWAY FOR A WHILE, IT IS NOT A TRANNY COMPUTER GLITCH!!!

http://www.thectsc.com/products/mechatronic-seal-adapter-6hp26-6hp28-6hp32-42-52.html

YES THIS SMALL, CHEAP GASKET CAN DAMAGE YOUR TRANSMISSION PRETTY BAD.

-OTHER 4 RUBBER PIPE SEALS.

6hp26Z_selas

They 5,6,7 also control clutch pressure, but even if they are flattened pretty bad transmission won’t give you any errors. Its always good idea to replace it- you’ll notice a difference how your tranny shifts. Online retailers has these seals under transmission parts section.

SOLENOID KITS. 2 TYPES

solenoids_2

-MOST COMMON E65, YOU DON’T NEED PARKING SOLENOIDS SINCE THEY DON’T GO BAD OFTEN, SO YOU CAN USE M-SHIFT SOLENOIDS, BUT YOU CAN GET E-SHIFT PACK AS WELL, WHICH IS 200$ MORE.

http://www.thectsc.com/products/solenoid-kit-6hp19/26/32-m-shift-36-45.html

solnoid_pack

Yes they go bad and are not simple solenoids you used to know from old school trannies. Now these are pressure regulators and they do not only work open\close operation, they control pressure and after so me time they get clogged, overheat, etc. So if your tranny temps are good and your tranny shifts hard, it could be your solenoids. Its good idea to replace them every 100k, because they control everything in the tranny. You will be surprised how tranny shifts with new solenoids. And you don’t need 2 parking  solenoids, so you can use 200$ cheaper kit, which fits 5,6 series without E-SHIFT. Also dont be scared if you open your transmision and find out that color is not the same- relax it changed color because of temps and age.  There are two types of kitsAll the parts at very good prices can be found here:

http://www.thectsc.com/catalog/mechatronic-parts-52.html

-GUIBO FLEX DISC. They usually go bad after BMW lifetime period 60-70k.

Common Symptoms:

a) hard 2-1 sift

b) at stop you can hear clunking when shifting from P-R-D

c)overall tranny shifting quality

-Tranny fluid level.

oil_pan_metal

Yes due to leaking oil pan gasket you might loose some fluid. Always check tranny oil pan for leaks and tranny fluid level (use BMW sealed tranny fluid level check procedure). It is always better to install metal oil pan- it never leaks and cheaper to maintain!

You can add BMW OEM PENTOSIN brand fluid or you can use MOBIL1 or CASTROL synthetic ATF fluid (10$/qt) import multi vehicle formula, believe it or not it has same specs if not better than BMW fluid and works great. Tested for 160kmls. BMW will only recommend OEM FLUID of course, but its up to you, so please do not comment here that different than OEM fluid will kill the tranny. But always make sure it has the same specs of course. Mostly Dextron 6 fluid applies  as well for this trannies.

UPDATE: TRANSMISSION RUNS MUCH BETTER WITH OEM ZF FLUID OR SHELL M1375.4 FLUIDS, SO BETTER SPEND FEW MORE BUCKS FOR CORRECT FLUID. FEBI OR ZF WILL WORK GREAT. SOME USE FORD FLUID, SINCE ITS THE SAME TRANSMISSION BUT FLUID IS MUCH CHEAPER.

-Torque converter clutch.

TC

Yes it can go bad just like any clutch, because this tranny engages this clutch very early causing premature wear and tear. In sport mode it can engage clutch as early as at first gear!! That’s why we get decent mpg from this tranny. In other words it is more like a manual tranny with torque converter working only at very low speeds and low rpm. So I would not recommend driving it very aggressively in the city, unless you enjoy paying 4-5k for a new tranny. Don’t forget this tranny handles 300-400hp and some impressive torque. Driving in normal mode, TC can last up to 300kmls!!

most common symptoms of bad clutch:

-sometimes when clutch is very bad it will throw 1721 error clucth slip

-bad MPG. Without TC clutch your car is still driveable, but you can feel its very weak even though engine feels strong

-after 4th gear tachometer arrow is not steady

-weak pickups, downshifting when driving uphill

-bad slipping  clutch will overheat tranny pump and finally will kill internal tranny parts (clucths, valve body, seals, etc)

good news you can have your TC rebuilt for around 300$ and from personal experience i must say its not as perfect as new, but decent still.

IMPORTANT NOTE: DON’T FORGET TO RESET TRANSMISSION  ADAPTATIONS  AFTER ANY REPAIR DONE ON THE TRANSMISSION!!! IF YOU DON’T RESET IT, TRANNY WON’T SHIFT ANY BETTER BECAUSE IT REMEMBERS BAD VALUES. SOME PPL THINK PRESSING GAS PEDAL AND SAYING SOME MAGIC WORDS RESETS TRANSMISSIONS EGS ADAPTATIONS IS A TOTAL MADE UP JOKE. YOU CAN ONLY RESET IT WITH BMW SOFTWARE INPA, ISTA, AND SOME OTHER SOFTWARE SNAP ON ETC.

I know its a long list of issues, but if you take care of your tranny every 80-100kmls it pays for itself pretty good. Most important thing for this tranny is correct fluid pressure and temps, other parts like clutches are very durable and made with highest quality standard. Don’t forget the same tranny they still install on newest Bentley, Rolls Royce, Audi, Maserati and other luxury brands. This tranny is way more reliable than Mercedes one or Lexus trannies with same specs. All transmission parts you can find here  http://www.thectsc.com/catalog/6-speed-parts-113.html

216 thoughts on “Everything about your ZF 6HP26, 6HP19, 6HP28 transmission issues

  1. GJW

    2003 Jaguar XK8 – Hard shift from 2nd to 1st – if I am coming to almost stop and then give it gas. If I let the car come to complete halt, no hard shift or if I don’t let it shift by gentle gas from almost dead stop.

  2. Per

    2009 320d xdrive 128k miles

    never had an oilchange.

    shifts perfectly but some times when it´s go from first to second gear with little gas and downhill it shift hard.

    should i change the oil and filterpan or am i begging for problems?

    should i put it in neutral when i get a redlight?

  3. Rene Munster

    Hallo. From the Netherlands

    Very good info here. Thanks for helping out everyone

    I have This problem.

    Second gear spins about 1000-3000 rpm until he lock up and go .1 gear is good pick up when you drive away. But the problem
    Starts when I shift up 1-2–3-4-5. And go back to the stop lights and the gearbox is shifting back to second gear. And then accelerate again the second gear spins.

    Second problem when I go on the highway and shift up 2-3-4 and then from 4 to 5 he go in neutral and right back to 4 gear and then direct to 5 gear when i hold the gas on the same position same when I do it manually.

    1: change gaskets between valve body and gearbox 4 round pipes and 1 square gasket.
    2: I change oil all off it, new filter
    Reset the adaptation value
    3: drove it nothing change.

    4: Valve body off change gasket between the two plates
    Zip kit instal .cleaned everything test solenoid
    4x 11.5 ohm. black one park 1x 30 ohm 1x 11.7ohm . ( the zip kit manual saying 4x 5.05ohm and 2x 11.5ohm ( very nices set I think… please tell me I am wrong )

    5: Change oil again
    6: reset adaptation value again.

    7: nothing changes??????????????

    Here are the adaptations values.
    Clutch press

    Clutch A -4.0 mbar
    Clutch B -124mbar
    Clutch C -233mbar
    Clutch D 59mbar
    Clutch E 270mbar

    Quick refil press
    Clutch A 42,0ms
    Clutch B 9,0ms
    Clutch C -6,0ms
    Clutch D 0,0ms
    Clutch E 56,0ms
    Please can you tell me what’s wrong

    Kind regards
    René

  4. Jarrod Picha

    2007 Z4 3.0si with Steptronic, 96k miles.

    When driving around town, driving seems normal. When transmission is warm, seems to get slight surge when coming to stop, like from torque converter.

    Main problem, when downshifting under load, like getting onto on-ramp, or going to pass, get following error.

    4F8A Ratio Monitoring, gearshift 4-5.

  5. Chris

    Hey buddy, i have 2010 Bmw 750li xdrive will fault code 400641 “parking gear incorrectly engaged”. Can you shed a little light on what you think this may be. My car stay in park and will not engage any gear and is stuck in 4th gear failsafe mode. ISTA tells me to replace mechatroics unit. i was thinking about replacing solenoids but to be honest i think i should just replace the entire valve body and reuse my tcm? what are your thought, anything will help, thanks buddy!!

  6. Chrus

    Hi i just changed, my Mechatronics, fluid, and filter and all sleeves and gaskets on my 08 135i, the ussue I’m having is it dies not seem to hold a constant rev after say 4th but it’s more noticeable in 6th Gear ilany ideas on what thus could be? Bad torque converter? I asl so get a bit of a Sutter when putting my foot down.

  7. Andrew G

    Transmission failure fault. 2005 545i had transmission replaced almost 4 years ago. Getting fault more often in past few months. After driving for a while then returning to car and reversing fault appears can hear gears shifting loudly in parked position. Like gears are loose sound very bad. After about 20 mins of vehicle turned off car returns to running smooth again no loud gears shifts normal. Need help thanks

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  9. James Brown

    My 2013 activehybrid 3 won’t shift into park. I went for a 600kms fun run with a few friends with alot of spirited driving and half way through when we stopped for a break I noticed the car won’t shift in Park and if I shut it down and try to lock the car I can’t. Runs perfectly o reverse and all other gears. Just won’t go into park. The N symbol blinks and the car goes into N.

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