What you are supposed to know about your ZF6HP26, 6HP19, 6HP28 and similar ford Transmissions.
It applies to all BMW, Jaguar, Bentley, Rolls Royce, Maserati, Audi and others with ZF 6HP26, 6HP19, 6HP28
In this post i will be explaining why you have transmission issues like:
-harsh shift 2-1
-not able to shift into park when hot
-weak torque feeling
-gear speed ratio faults
-other faults
All highlighted problems you can experience even on low miles cars less than 70-80k, it depends on at what speeds your car mostly runs. On the highway this tranny will easily last 200-300kmls. AND EVERYTHING IS RELATED TO VALVE BODY PRESSURE LOSS DUE TO SOLENOIDS OR ACTUAL VALVE BODY SEALING GASKETS LEAKING INSIDE, BUT BETTER DO BOTH. DRIVING WITH LEAKING VALVE BODY WILL EVENTUALLY WEAR OUT ACTUAL TRANSMISSION HARDWARE.
BEST ADVICE FOR YOU: SINCE 99% issues with this trannies are related to valve body fluid pressure loss, I strongly recommend new (re manufactured) valve body from ZF (expensive 1600$), (you can find some companies offer this rebuild, but they charge almost new VB price, or rebuild it yourself with NEW SOLENOIDS PACK (300-400$) and SONNAX zip kit (150$). If after you rebuilt or replaced valve body and RESET ADAPTATIONS USING BMW SOFTWARE INPA OR ISTA IS A MUST, OR YOU WON’T SEE ANY DIFFERENCE AFTER REBUILT, BECAUSE TCM KNOWS VALVE BODY PRESSURE VALUES AND THEY MUST BE RESET. IF AFTER REBUILT, it’s not shifting well, it means YOU WAITED TOO LONG WITH VALVE BODY REBUILT AND DESTROYED transmission hardware (bushings or actual clutches failed) and you need to rebuild it, but like i said main problem STARTS at valve body and then if not fixed in time you get worn out transmission. All those jolts, bumps or harsh shifts cause premature wear and tear on your tranny. Rule of the thumb is not to drive it if it jerks,or shifts wrong.
replacing just solenoids without rebuilding valve body, where accumulators/pistons always go bad after 60-70k, will not get you perfect results, but might improve shifting quality. Remember-cheap people usually pay twice (no offense).
So you hate the way tranny shifts and dealer and other shops didn’t find any faults and told youit is what it is and this is how it is intended to work! Well it is total lie they are trying to get rid of you with.
In fact ZF 6HP26 6hp19, 6hp28 is a very good transmission, powerful, bullet proof pretty much if serviced in time and proper fluid pressure maintained! This tranny is still considered one of the best and has carbon clutches vs cheap paper ones you can find on Japanese cars. But this tranny has very serious and very
important weak spots you have to take care of:
-First thing first check tranny temperatures. If it is higher than 95C, then most likely you have a problem with tranny cooling system or your engine cooling has some leaks causing running it very hot.
Usually high temps indicate following:
1) engine cooling system problem- air bauble or airlock
2) if everything is good with cooling system, check your tranny oil cooler- it gets clogged up pretty often and also indicates that some clutches or TC clutch is worn out and that debris clogged oil cooler.
3) worn out TC clutch slipping overheating transmission fluid.
Your good engine temps are 103-105C and if it climbs to 107-110C in traffic, it means you’ve got a leak :
-lower radiator hose sensor leaking (usually shows a white residue around the sensor)
-valley pan under intake
-rear cover plate between tranny and engine. Very common after 100k or 8-10yrs.
-coolant tank cracked
-radiator cap leaking pressure
-coolant pipe seal leaking
-other cooling issues
It is very important to keep temps in specs not only because of few degrees, but because with leaking
cooling system you lose coolant pressure introducing air in the system, causing uneven cooling and overheating both engine and tranny. Good OEM specs are 103-105 cycle when idling and lower hose should be hot around 60-80C. When you drive it tstat is controlled by ECU therefore it keeps it cool on the freeway.
Easy way to test your cooling system
1) Disconnect aux pump connector assuming aux pump is working (they fail often)
2) Drive your car to warm engine well
-
-
- Turn on heater on hot but low speed
- check if you get hot air from vents for 10 minutes.
- If after a minute you noticed your heater is not hot anymore, it means you’ve got a leak!
- This Engine has self bleeding cooling system, which means you cannot get air pocket if system is well sealed.
-
So if engine temps are good and tranny still runs hot 100-110, it means heat exchanger is clogged with tranny clutches, TC wear and tear dirt. Replace it and check if it got better. This tranny will die quick if temps are not good.
–MECHATRONIC ADAPTER SEAL.
This adapter (number 2) usually lasts only 60-70kmls (BMW lifetime). Replace it every 60kmls even if tranny shifts well. It is very important because it keeps your mechatronic valve body under specified pressure therefore it controls how clutches are pressed! Which means if your gasket is weak your tranny clutches are not pressing well on each other causing premature wear and tear, also tranny pump and TC clutch will be affected. This square seal also can CRACK, in this case you will get tranny fail safe errors and even clutches slipping ERRORS, causing very quick TRANNY DEATH. DON’T DRIVE YOUR CAR IF YOU’RE GETTING ANY TRANNY FAULTS, EVEN AFTER RESTART TRANNY ERRORS GO AWAY FOR A WHILE, IT IS NOT A TRANNY COMPUTER GLITCH!!!
http://www.thectsc.com/products/mechatronic-seal-adapter-6hp26-6hp28-6hp32-42-52.html
YES THIS SMALL, CHEAP GASKET CAN DAMAGE YOUR TRANSMISSION PRETTY BAD.
-OTHER 4 RUBBER PIPE SEALS.
They 5,6,7 also control clutch pressure, but even if they are flattened pretty bad transmission won’t give you any errors. Its always good idea to replace it- you’ll notice a difference how your tranny shifts. Online retailers has these seals under transmission parts section.
–SOLENOID KITS. 2 TYPES
-MOST COMMON E65, YOU DON’T NEED PARKING SOLENOIDS SINCE THEY DON’T GO BAD OFTEN, SO YOU CAN USE M-SHIFT SOLENOIDS, BUT YOU CAN GET E-SHIFT PACK AS WELL, WHICH IS 200$ MORE.
http://www.thectsc.com/products/solenoid-kit-6hp19/26/32-m-shift-36-45.html
Yes they go bad and are not simple solenoids you used to know from old school trannies. Now these are pressure regulators and they do not only work open\close operation, they control pressure and after so me time they get clogged, overheat, etc. So if your tranny temps are good and your tranny shifts hard, it could be your solenoids. Its good idea to replace them every 100k, because they control everything in the tranny. You will be surprised how tranny shifts with new solenoids. And you don’t need 2 parking solenoids, so you can use 200$ cheaper kit, which fits 5,6 series without E-SHIFT. Also dont be scared if you open your transmision and find out that color is not the same- relax it changed color because of temps and age. There are two types of kitsAll the parts at very good prices can be found here:
http://www.thectsc.com/catalog/mechatronic-parts-52.html
-GUIBO FLEX DISC. They usually go bad after BMW lifetime period 60-70k.
Common Symptoms:
a) hard 2-1 sift
b) at stop you can hear clunking when shifting from P-R-D
c)overall tranny shifting quality
-Tranny fluid level.
Yes due to leaking oil pan gasket you might loose some fluid. Always check tranny oil pan for leaks and tranny fluid level (use BMW sealed tranny fluid level check procedure). It is always better to install metal oil pan- it never leaks and cheaper to maintain!
You can add BMW OEM PENTOSIN brand fluid or you can use MOBIL1 or CASTROL synthetic ATF fluid (10$/qt) import multi vehicle formula, believe it or not it has same specs if not better than BMW fluid and works great. Tested for 160kmls. BMW will only recommend OEM FLUID of course, but its up to you, so please do not comment here that different than OEM fluid will kill the tranny. But always make sure it has the same specs of course. Mostly Dextron 6 fluid applies as well for this trannies.
UPDATE: TRANSMISSION RUNS MUCH BETTER WITH OEM ZF FLUID OR SHELL M1375.4 FLUIDS, SO BETTER SPEND FEW MORE BUCKS FOR CORRECT FLUID. FEBI OR ZF WILL WORK GREAT. SOME USE FORD FLUID, SINCE ITS THE SAME TRANSMISSION BUT FLUID IS MUCH CHEAPER.
-Torque converter clutch.
Yes it can go bad just like any clutch, because this tranny engages this clutch very early causing premature wear and tear. In sport mode it can engage clutch as early as at first gear!! That’s why we get decent mpg from this tranny. In other words it is more like a manual tranny with torque converter working only at very low speeds and low rpm. So I would not recommend driving it very aggressively in the city, unless you enjoy paying 4-5k for a new tranny. Don’t forget this tranny handles 300-400hp and some impressive torque. Driving in normal mode, TC can last up to 300kmls!!
most common symptoms of bad clutch:
-sometimes when clutch is very bad it will throw 1721 error clucth slip
-bad MPG. Without TC clutch your car is still driveable, but you can feel its very weak even though engine feels strong
-after 4th gear tachometer arrow is not steady
-weak pickups, downshifting when driving uphill
-bad slipping clutch will overheat tranny pump and finally will kill internal tranny parts (clucths, valve body, seals, etc)
good news you can have your TC rebuilt for around 300$ and from personal experience i must say its not as perfect as new, but decent still.
IMPORTANT NOTE: DON’T FORGET TO RESET TRANSMISSION ADAPTATIONS AFTER ANY REPAIR DONE ON THE TRANSMISSION!!! IF YOU DON’T RESET IT, TRANNY WON’T SHIFT ANY BETTER BECAUSE IT REMEMBERS BAD VALUES. SOME PPL THINK PRESSING GAS PEDAL AND SAYING SOME MAGIC WORDS RESETS TRANSMISSIONS EGS ADAPTATIONS IS A TOTAL MADE UP JOKE. YOU CAN ONLY RESET IT WITH BMW SOFTWARE INPA, ISTA, AND SOME OTHER SOFTWARE SNAP ON ETC.
I know its a long list of issues, but if you take care of your tranny every 80-100kmls it pays for itself pretty good. Most important thing for this tranny is correct fluid pressure and temps, other parts like clutches are very durable and made with highest quality standard. Don’t forget the same tranny they still install on newest Bentley, Rolls Royce, Audi, Maserati and other luxury brands. This tranny is way more reliable than Mercedes one or Lexus trannies with same specs. All transmission parts you can find here http://www.thectsc.com/catalog/6-speed-parts-113.html
Hi there,
Thanks for sharing all this information with us. Extremely helpful. I too have an issue with my tranny, car is e65 730d, ZF 6hp26.
Its tuned to approx 350hp and 800nm.
Car goes into failsafe when hard accelerating and changing from 5th to 6th and only happens around 160-170 km/h. Or when hard accelerating and shifting from 6th to 5th at around the same speed. Would it be because of high torque? Oil was changed approx 5000km ago.
Trouble codes:
5140
4F4C
4F51
Any help is appreciated
Regards
it could be valve body problem, you need to check adaptation values first, but in 99% cases valve body causes lots of different isuues
Hi, I have a 04 525i M/Sport.
Mechanics i have taken this to have not been able to specificlly tell what the problem is.
I have 2 fault codes that appear after scanning.
5088 Selector Swich L1-L4
5089 They dont know
When driving at low speed and i take my foot off the thottle, or stationary at traffic lights, The transmission will drop out of drive. The ” D ” in the dash cluster will disappear and is blank though all other symbols on the dash are fine.
I have all other operations P R N and they work fine.
It has sometimes come back on its own, or the failsafe will engage. After restarting, failsafe is cleared and car operates as normal. It might be the next day or 2 before it happens again.
If i keep revs slightly up when staionary or using any throttle while driving , it wont drop out
I would greatly appreciate any thoughts you had on this.
Thank You
Jason
sounds like gear selector switch could be faulty
2004 530i Code 4F8C stuck in second gear. Dealer says new tranny. Your thoughts?
get valve body rebuilt before rebuilding entire tranny. it might fix the issues
2004 530i Code 4F8C. error goes away and drives fine after restart. Not stuck and won’t shift out of seconde gear. Any suugestions ?
standard mechatroincs issues. get it rebuilt or at least replace solenoids
hi i have a bmw 530 d paddle shift 2007
between 3rd and 4th gear when selecting 4th one it engages gear the revs drop as it just drops in gear no clutch.
iv also noticed on the same 3rd to 4th most of the time the gear will go in to 4th around 18-1900 rpm and driving same style it will change about 2400rpm and this is only between 3rd to 4th all other gears are ok. the oil and sump was replaced by bmw in 2012 t about 60k the car now has 80k.
would a software update sort this out ?
the problem only started after gong sideways around a round about for a bit ;-(
is this normal gearbox behavier ? or am i being parannoyed
any advice would be great thanks
NO ITS NOT, YOU NEED TO SERVICE YOUR VALVE BODY
Hi I got a bmw 750 li 2006 and is shifting hard from 3rd gear to 4th gear and slip and I’m having a code solenoid 3 interlock , also some times shift hard 1 to 2nd gear. Any idea what could be the issue please I’m kind desperate with this issue. Thanks….
ANY IDEA? IT TELLS YOU HAVE SOLENOID PROBLEM RIGHT THERE. REPLACE THEM AND IT SHOULD BE ALL RIGHT
Hi I got a bmw 750 li 2006 and is shifting hard from 3rd gear to 4th gear and slip and I’m having a code solenoid 3 interlock , also some times shift hard 1 to 2nd gear. Any idea what could be the issue please I’m kind desperate with this issue. Thanks
YOU NEED TO REPLACE AT LEAST ALL SOLENOIDS SINCE YOU CANT TEST THEM YOURSELF. SOLENOIDS DO GO BAD VERY OFTEN
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Hello cj from Australia
Firstly congrats on a great Blog and thank you on behalf of all for continuously helping us out .
I have just purchased a 2004 e60 530i
Done 70k kms
Trans – Automatic
Was serviced by BMW till 40k kms and then local mechanic after
Problem
The car when accelerated mostly uphill and even more so when it has more ppl sitting , the car when shifting from 4 to 5 . The engine revs out like there was a neutral gear in between and then engages into 5th gear . A minute later the auto trans error comes up . It doesn’t happen all the time .
The mechanic scanned and found 4F51 5 gear monitoring .
I don’t think the car transmission was ever serviced. What is your diagnosis and what are the list of things you suggest I do considering the car may have never had a transmission service .
Where can I get parts in Melbourne and any mechanics you re commend ?
no sure about melbourne, but try valve body rebuilt or at least replace solenoids in there along with square mechatronic gasket. just folllow the article, its all the same for these transmissions.
Changing solenoids wont help. I have the same issue, had already replaced solenoids, gaskets, seals, valve body separator plate… Still the same.. Probably one of pressure regulators has worn out..
PRESSURE REGULATOR=SOLENOID IN THIS TRANNY, DID YOU RESET ADAPTATIONS AFTER YOU REPLACED EVERYTHING?
OF OCURSE IF YOU DID IT LATE, IT MIGHT HAVE AFFECTED ACTUAL CLUTCHES AND BUSHINGS